Kidemi^ 


3;  lllc£oits?^i5gbaiV- 


• 


^ 


T.    J.    M(:C(JNNAIJGHAY. 


PART    FIRST 


Barbers'  manual 


PART   SECOND 


Cext  Book  on  taxidermy 

By  C.  %  mceonnaugbdv 


PRICE^  SI. 25 


Copyrighted  and  all  rights  reserved  by  author. 
Chicago,  111.,  1898. 


Preface* 

By  way  of  explaining  the  dual  char- 
acter of  this  little  book,  we  here  indulge 
a  few  brief  introductory  remarks. 

Part  First  is  designed  simply  as  a 
manual  of  instruction  for  barbers,  and 
we  hope  it  will,  in  a  valuable  measure, 
supply  a  long  felt  need.  It  will  prove 
especially  beneficial  to  the  younger  and 
less  experienced  members  of  our  craft. 

The  best  artisans  and  artists  admit 
they  owe  much  to  the  accumulated 
knowledge  and  experience  of  both  their 
predecessors  and  their  contemporaries. 
Indeed,  to  assert  any  claim  to  advanced 
knowledge  and  skill,  without  due  ac- 
knowledgements for  the  help  received 
from  others  would  savor  of  an  inex- 
cusable  egotism.      The  man  who  pro- 

1754781 


fesses  to  ))e  a  self-made  man  is  always 
notorious  for  worshiping  his  maker. 

We  should,  of  course,  always  put 
our  own  impress  upon  all  our  work. 
Our  observations  on  the  methods  of 
others  should  supplement  but  not  su})- 
l)lant  our  own  originality  and  our  own 
reason.  A  noted  artist  when  asked 
how  he  mixed  his  paints  to  achieve  such 
wonderful  results,  replied:  ''I  mix 
them  with  brains." 

So  must  we  use  our  own  })rains  as 
well  as  the  brains  of  others,  if  we  would 
succeed  in  this  day  of  rai)id  improve- 
ments and  sharp  competition. 

The  information  given  in  this  book 
is  not  guess  work,  but  the  result  of 
long  years  of  study  and  i)ractice. 
Thirty-one  years  have  I  conducted  a 
shop  of  my  own.  During  these  years 
every  reci})e  here  given  has  been 
thoroughly  tested.  We  know  they  a;e 
all  good. 

Part  Second  is  devoted  to  taxidermy. 
4 


which  for  twenty-three  years  I  have 
connected  with  my  other  shop  work. 
1  have  preserved  and  sold  hundreds  of 
specimens,  and  this  work  has  proven  a 
source  of  much  pleasure  and  profit, 
enabling  me  to  turn  many  otherwise 
idle  moments  into  money. 

On  this  line  I  have  not  confined  my- 
self to  taxidermic  work  alone,  but  have 
also  connected  the  tanning  of  hides 
with  the  hair  on,  which  I  have  manu- 
factured into  mats,  rugs,  etc. 

Hence  this  little  book,  under  a  two- 
foLl  title,  practically  includes  three 
trades. 

We  ofi'er  it  as  a  money  saving  and 
money  making  investment.  The  re- 
cipes and  other  information  contained 
herein  will  enable  any  barber  to  make 
all  his  own  preparations,  and  to  man- 
ufacture them  for  sale.  He  may 
also  connect  taxidermy  and  tanning  if 
it  suit  his  pleasure  and  l)usiness. 


RIstoric  SKetcb. 

Tlic,  word  harlxT  is  derived  from  the 
I^Mtin  word  'd):ii-l)ji/'  whieh  means 
lieard,  and  hence  is  a])plied  to  one 
whose  oeeui)ation  is  to  shave  and  trim 
Ix^anls  and  cut  hair.  'I'he  barber's  crafl 
is  a  very  ancient  one.  rh(;  })ractice  of 
shavin<;  was  common  amonir  the  ancient 
K<;\'|)tians,  (i reeks  and  Romans;  Jind 
was  even  mentioned  by  tlie  prophet 
Ezekiel,  chapter  v,  1st  verse.  Amon<; 
the  ancient  Israelites  the  removal  of  the 
beard  ])y  shavin<^  or  i)luckin<^  was  a 
sIl^ii  of  mourning.  It  would  seem  that 
the  oriirin  of  our  trade  was  prehistoric. 

In  early  times  barl)erin<j^  was  con- 
j()inc(l  with  surtjfery,  and  the  barber 
also  served  the  iJiiblic  in  the  cai)acity 
of  sur^^con.  In  France  the  barber- 
chirur^'^eons,  or  l)arber-sur<;eons,  were 
() 


separated  from  the  pcrriKiuiers,  or 
wio^-iiiakers,  and  wore  incorporated  as 
a  distinct  body  in  tlu^  lattiM-  part  of  the 
ITili  century.  In  Knij^land  l)arbers 
were  incorporated  with  special  privi- 
le^res  in  14G1,  and  were  afterwards 
united  to  the  society  of  surgeons,  but 
were  con  lined  to  the  minor  operations 
of  blood  letting  and  drawing  teeth.  In 
1745  an  act  was  i)assed,  the  preamble 
of  which  declared  the  trade  of  the  bar- 
l)er  and  the  profession  of  surgery  are 
foreign  to  and  independent  of  each 
other. 

'I'll is  act  practically  divorced  surgery 
from  the  barl)er's  chair.  However, 
(piite  recently  the  surgeons  of  the 
Swedish  navy  were  also  barbers  for  the 
crew.  In  former  times,  not  far  re- 
mote, it  was  customary  to  keej)  a  lute 
or  a  violin  for  the  entertainment  of 
patrons,  Avhich  made  the  shop  a  favor- 
ite resort  for  idle  j)ersons.  In  China 
and  some  other  oriental  countries,  bar- 
7 


!)L'rs  not  only  shave  the  face,  Init  they 
also  shave  the  whole  or  a  part  of  the 
head. 

BARBER'S  SIGN. 

Though  barbering  is  now  entirely 
separated  from  surgery,  yet  a  monu- 
ment of  their  former  union  may  be 
still  seen  in  the  striped  pole  and  basin 
so  often  projecting  from  the  front  of 
Ijarber  shops. 

The  fillet,  or  spiral  strip  around  the 
pole  symbolizes  the  winding  of  a  rib- 
bon round  the  arm  previous  to  letting 
blood,  and  its  red  color  symbolizes  the 
blood.  The  Ijasin,  yet  sometimes  seen 
at  the  base,  represents  a  vessel  pre- 
pared to  catch  the  blood. 

Barber's  poles  in  this  country  are 
tri-colored.  The  white  symbolizes  the 
arm,  the  red  represents  the  shed  blood, 
while  Americans  have  added  the  blue 
to  complete  our  national  colors. 
8 


I 


Recipes,  formulas,  etc. 


GERMAN  HAIR  DYE. 

The  process  here  given  comprehends 
a  double  formula,  and  to  insure  satis- 
factory results,  the  directions  subjoined 
should  be  carefully  followed. 


No.   1. 

Nitrate  of  Silver     - 
Stronger  Water  of  Ammonia 
Distilled  Kain  Water      -     - 

3  drachms 
i  oijnce 
i  ounce 

No  2. 

Pyrogallic  Acid         -     .  - 
Alcohol      ------ 

Distilled  or  Rain  Water     - 

3  drachms 

^  ounce 
6     ounces 

Directions. — Formula  No  1,  and 
formula  No.  2,  should  each  be  put  up 
in  a  separate  bottle. 

In  compounding,  each  of  the  first  two 
ingredients    should    be    combined  and 


reduced  to  a  solution  and  the  water 
then  added. 

Before  using  these  prei)arations  the 
})eard  or  hair  should  first  he  thoroughly 
washed  and  dried. 

Then  ai)ply  Xo.  1  Avith  the  fingers, 
and  when  })artly  dried  api)ly  No.  2 
with  a  tooth  brush  and  a  comb,  being 
careful  to  get  the  dye  down  to  the  skin. 
If  convenient  let  the  party  go  out  into 
the  open  air  for  an  hour.  Otherwise 
the  hair  should  be  thoroughly  dried 
with  a  fan,  and  Avashed  with  soap  and 
soft  water.  This  formula  was  brought 
from  Germany  by  a  St.  Louis  bar])er 
and  sold  to  the  author  in  1869.  Proi> 
erly  put  up  it  is  not  only  first-class,  but 
1  have  never  found  any  other  prepara- 
tion e(pial  to  it. 

BROWN  HAIR  DYE. 

Take  four  pounds    of  green   walnut 
hulls.      Put   them  in    li    gallons  soft 
water  and    boil  down  to    three  pints. 
10 


Strain  off  through  cloth  until  clear  of 
sediment.  To  one  quart  of  this  add  one 
(juart  of  alcohol,  and  3  ounces  of  irly- 
cerine.  Use  as  other  restorers,  once  a 
day  until  the  desired  shade  is  ol)tained. 
The  hulls  should  be  gathered  in  August. 

QUIMNE    HAIR    TONIC   AND   SEA    FOAM. 

The  strong  point  in  favor  of  this 
preparation  as  a  sea  foam  is  that  it  acts 
at  the  same  time  as  a  tonic  for  the  hair. 


Formula. 

Alcohol         -         -         - 

1  pint 

Glycerine 

^  ounce 

Tincture  of  Cantharides 

i  ounce 

Aqua  Ammonia 

i  ounce 

Sulphate  of  Quinine     - 

-     30  grains 

Oil  of  Cloves 

1  drachm 

Rock  salt  (or  table  salt) 

i  ounce 

Distilled  or  rain  water 

1  pint 

Directions. — AVhen  using  as  a  sea- 
foam,  wet  the  hair  and  rub  briskly  with 
linger  ends  until  the  foam  has  disap- 
11 


peared.  Then  take  a  towel  and  rub 
partly  dry. 

A\  hen  using  as  a  dandruff  cure,  sea- 
foam  twice  a  week,  dampen  the  hair 
twice  a  day  for  two  weeks,  after 
which  use  once  a  week  as  a  sea-foam. 
This  will  keep  the  scalp  in  tine  condi- 
tion. 

After  you  have  tried  it  you  will  use 
no  other. 


CREAM  FOR  CHAPPED  HANDS  AND  FACE. 

This  recipe  was  given  me  by  a  drug- 
gist whom  I  have  known  for  years.  Its 
reliable  and  com})etent  source  is  a  suffi- 


cient  guarantee: 

FORMULA. 

Quince  seed 

i  ounce 

Distilled  extract  witch  hazel 

-     1  pint 

Glycerine 

-     ipint 

Alcohol 

-       i  pint 

Powdered  Boracic  Acid 

160  grains 

Carbolic  Acid        -       -       - 

82  drops 

Perfume  to  suit. 

12 

Directions  for  Making. — First  put 
(juince  seed  in  witch  hazel  and  let  stand 
twenty-four  hours.  Then  strain  through 
cheese  cloth  and  add  the  other  ingred- 
ients. I  know  this  to  be  good  for  the 
face  after  shavino^. 

PYTHIAN  CREAM. 

This  is  another  preparation  for  the 
face  and  hands. 

FORMULA. 

Gum  Tragacanth  (in  flake)  -  ^  ounce 
Glycerine  -  -  -  4  ounces 
Distilled  or  rain  water      -      -     |^  gallon 

Directions  for  Making — Put  gum 
tragacanth  in  Avater  and  let  stand  till 
thoroughly  dissolved,  and  strain  through 
a  cheese  cloth.  Then  add  the  glycerine 
and  a  sufficient  amount  of  Pythian  bou- 
quet to  perfume.  Color  pink  w^ith 
powdered  carmine.  It  should  be  about 
the  consistency  of  cream.  If  too  thick 
13 


add  more  water.  There  should  he  a 
ha  If -gallon  water  to  the  four  ounces  of 
glycerine  when  linished. 

BAY  CREiJI. 

The  only  diti'erence  between  this  and 
Pythian  Cream  is  in  the  perfume. 
Some  like  the  bay  rum  better. 

Directions — Use  the  formula  of  the 
preceding  and  then  add  perfume  with 
the  genuine  oil  of  bay. 

COLD  CREAM. 

The  only  ditierence  between  this  and 
the  two  preceding  creams  is  that  instead 
of  perfume  a  compound  of  alcohol  and 
menthol  is  used. 

Directions. — Use  the  same  body  as 
for  Pythian  Cream,  and  then  add  alco- 
hol and  menthol  as  follows: 

Put  6  drachms  of  menthol  crystals 
into  an  ounce  of  alcohol.  AVhen  the 
menthol  is   thoroughly   dissolved   add 

14: 


this  combination  to  ^  gallon  of  the 
cream.  The  presence  of  the  menthol 
gives  this  preparation  a  very  pleasant 
coolinof  effect.  Hence  it  is  well  named. 
This  cream  may,  of  course,  be  per- 
fumed if  desirable. 

Instead  of  these  face  creams,  some 
customers  will  prefer  the  pure  bay  rum, 
while  perhaps  many  w411  prefer  witch 
hazel.  These  can,  of  course,  be  ob- 
tained from  barber  sui)ply  houses  or 
from  drug  stores ;  the  witch  hazel  may 
be  improved  by  adding  to  it  a  good 
cologne.  Try  two  parts  witch  hazel  to 
one  part  cologne. 


BAY  RUM. 

No.  1. 

Bay  Oil 

i  ounce 

Oil  of  Pimento     - 

i  ounce 

Alcohol          -         -         _ 

3    pints 

Water 

-     3    pints 

15 

No.  2. 
Magnesium        -         -         -       i  pound 
Oil  of  Bay     -         -         -  ^  pound 

Mash  them  well  toirether  and  put 
them  in  a  lilter  and  pour  in  two  quarts 
of  water.  Let  it  filter  slowly,  and  then 
add  2  quarts  Alcohol. 

IMITATION  OF  BAY  RUM. 

No  3. 
Oil  of  Bay  -  -         3    drachms 

Oil  Pimento     -         -  -      ^  drachm 

Water         -         -  -  1^  ({uarts 

Acetic  Ether   -         -  -   l.V  ounces 

Alcohol       -         -  -         2     ( quarts 

Mix  and  let  stand  3  days,  then  filter. 

CAMPHOR    ICE. 

Oil  of  Sweet  Almonds  -  -  -!^-  ounces 
White  Wax  -  -  -  -  ^>.V  ounces 
Spermaceti  -  -  -  -  3^  ounces 
Cjum  Camphor  -  -  -  f  ounces 
Mix  together,  melt  and  pour  otf  in 
small  salve  boxes. 


MENTHOL  SALVE. 

Mutton  Tallow  -         -      1  ounce 

Lard  _         _         -  1  ounce 

Menthol  (in  crystals)         -      3  drachms 

Melt  together  and  pour  off  in  salve 
boxes. 

Both  the  Camphor  Ice  and  the  Men- 
thol salve  are  good  for  tender  faces. 

SILVER  GLOSS  SHAMPOO. 

This  is  an  economic  and  very  satis- 
factory preparation. 

FORMULA. 

White  Castile  Soap  (the  very 

best)  -  -  -  -  1  pound 
Refined  Carbonate  of  Potash  f  pound 
Distilled  or  rain  water  -  -  1  gallon 
Table  Salt         -         -         -        i  ounce 

Refined  Carbonate  of  Potash  is  also 
called  Pure  Salts  of    Tartar.      I   have 
found  the  English  brands  preferable. 
17 


Directions. — Shave  the  soa})  fine  and 
l)ut  into  the  water  (as  per  above  form- 
ula), which  should  l)e  contained  in  a 
porcelain  vessel. 

Let  it  boil  until  soap  is  thoroughly 
dissolved  and  strain  off  into  another 
vessel,  and  then  add  the  pure  salts  of 
tartar  while  still  hot.  Add  the  salt  and 
enough  more  Ijoiling  water  to  replace 
the  amount  which  has  boiled  away,  and 
continue  to  stir  until  it  becomes  only 
luke  warm;  then  add  a  few  drops  of  the 
oil  of  cloves  (or  some  other  perfume),  if 
desirable.  Finally  pour  off  in  small 
jelly  jars  and  set  away  for  use.  1  gallon 
made  in  this  way  will  make  5  gallons  of 
ordinary  shampoo,  by  simply  adding  4 
gallons  more  of  water.  This  (quantity 
should  not  cost  over  fifty  cents.  A 
pound  of  the  refined  carbonate  of  })ot- 
ash  costs  twenty  cents,  and  a  pound  pf 
castile  soap  only  fifteen  cents,  and  the 
perfume  Avill  cost  less  than  the  re- 
mainder of  50  cents. 
18 


( 


One  teaspoonful  is  enough  to  clean 
any  ordinary  suit  of  hair. 

In  cleaning  ladies'  hair  it  is  well  to 
add  a  little  ethylic  ether,  commonly 
called  sulphuric  ether.  ^  ever  use  hard 
water.  If  necessary  save  up  enough 
rain  water.  I  give  elsewhere  directions 
for  making  shampooing  outfit,  Avhich 
may  also  be  conveniently  used  for 
shower  baths  in  shops  and  houses  where 
there  is  no  connection  with  water  works. 
Water  to  be  used  for  shampooing  should 
always  be  warm. 

EGCi  SHAMPOO. 

This  favorite  preparation  should  be 
used  immediately  after  mixing. 

Take  1  fresh  egg,  1  teaspoonful  of 
silver  gloss  shampoo,  and  J  teaspoonful 
of  powdered  borax.  Mix  together  with 
an  egg  beater,  and  then  use  as  other 
shampoos. 

19 


A  CHEAP  SEA  FOAM. 

Take  i^  ounces  of  the  silver  gloss 
shampoo,  2  ounces  alcohol,  1  ounce 
irlycerine  and  1  pint  water;  shake  well 
together  and  perfume  to  suit  your 
fancy. 

The  shampoo  or  sea  foam  can  be 
colored  a  nice  yellow  by  making  a  tea 
of  satfron  and  water,  adding  enough 
after  straining  it  to  get  the  desired 
color  Powdered  carmine  can  also  be 
used  to  color  a  red  or  pink  color. 

BRILLIAMINE. 

Take  1  ounce  of  good  glycerine,  J 
ounce  of  rose  geranium  and  1  ounce 
water.  Mix.  This  i)reparation  is  a  good 
one,  and  can  be  made  very  cheap  by 
using  a  less  amount  of  the  perfume. 
It  never  separates,  and  is  good  as  long 
as  there  is  a  drop  of  it  left. 


ENORAVIX;  FLLIDS. 

for 

20 


AVe  here  irive  a  forniuhi  for  raakiuor 


an  etchins:  fluid,  to  he  nsed  in  markini!^ 
razors,  shears  and  other  steel  tools. 

FORMULA. 

Bluestone  -         -         -       1  ounce 

Table  Salt    -  -         -  1  ounce 

Water     -  -  -  -     6  ounces 

Directions. — Cover  blade  or  plate 
with  soap  or  varnish,  and  then  with 
etching  needle  or  common  pencil  write 
the  name  or  letters  desired,  being  care- 
ful to  score  or  scratch  through  to  the 
metal.  Then  till  the  traced  lines  with 
the  fluid  and  let  it  remain  five  minutes. 
The  fluid  will  corrode  the  metal  in  the 
lines  thus  laid  bare.  Therefore  when 
the  covering  and  acid  are  washed  off 
the  lettering  will  remain. 

Be  careful  to  wash  promptly  and  dry 
thoroughly. 

BLACK  HEADS. 

What  are  known  as  black  heads  are 
generally  found  in  the  skin   of    people 
21 


who  are  addicted  to  the  use  of  much 
hog  meat.  iSuch  people  are  also  as  a 
rule,  rather  careless,  to  say  the  least, 
about  bathing  their  faces.  A  hint  to 
the  wise  will  be  sufficient.  Let  them 
not  be  afraid  a  rough  towel  will  scratch 
them.  I  give  below  a  recipe  highly 
recommended. 

FORMULA. 

Alcohol         -  -  -        4  ounces 

Boracic  Acid     -  -  -   2  drachms 

Distilled  or  rain  water     -      1^  ounces 

Apply  this  three  times  per  day  after 
first  having  thoroughly  washed  the  face 
and  rul)bing  dry  Avith  a  coarse  towel. 
Considerable  benefit  will,  at  least,  be 
derived  from  a  faithful  application  of 
the  above. 

HAIR  BLEACHING. 

First  clean  the  hair  with  the  Silver 
Gloss  shampoo,  and  when  dry  apply 
peroxide    of    hydrogen    until     damp. 

22' 


When  dry,  again  repeat  the  application, 
and  continue  to  repeat  it  until  nearly  as 
light  as  desired. 

The  hair  will  continue  to  bleach  a 
little  lighter  for  about  three  days,  and 
hence  it  is  necessary  to  discontinue  the 
application  when  the  hair  is  a  shade 
darker  than  desired. 

WHITENING  FOR  THE  FACE. 

Put  1  ounce  of  the  oxide  of  zinc  into 
a  plate  and  pour  over  it  3  ounces  of 
soft  water.  Mash  zinc  with  a  spoon 
until  it  is  all  dissolved.  Pour  the  solu- 
tion into  a  pint  bottle  and  fill  up  with 
witch  hazel.  When  the  weather  is  cold, 
pure  soft  water  may  be  used  instead  of 
the  witch  hazel;  but  the  preparation 
would  sour  in  warm  weather.  Apply 
with  a  soft  cloth. 

BARBERS'  ITCH. 

Fear  of  this  disease  causes  many  men 
to    shave    themselves,    and    this    class 
23 


would  otherwise  be  among  the  very 
best  customers. 

When  these  men  observe  how  care- 
less the  average  barber  is  with  his 
towels,  mugs,  tools,  etc.,  they  become 
disgusted  and  purchase  a  shaving  outfit 
and  quit  the  ])arbers'  chair,  except  when 
they  want  a  hair-cut. 

I  believe  every  barber  should  know 
how  to  treat  this  disease.  Hence  I  will 
make  a  few  suggestions  as  to  its  causa- 
tion and  treatment. 

Scabies,  or  itch,  in  its  various  forms 
is  a  disease  caused  by  the  irritation  pro- 
duced from  the  presence  in  the  skin  of 
what  is  called  the  itch  mite  and  the  ova 
of  the  same.  The  cure  involves  the  de- 
struction of  these  parasites.  Get  a 
doctor,  if  possible,  to  prescribe;  if  no 
doctor  can  be  got  who  understands  it,  1 
would  try  the  following:  An  ointment 
made  from  the  flour  of  sulphur  and 
lard  or  sulphur  and  vaseline,  is  about 
the  best  remedy  known.  Hub  in  well 
24 


at  night  and  wash  off  in  morning.  Or 
take  citron  ointment  1  ounce  and  mut- 
ton tallow  1  ounce.  Melt  together  and 
stir  till  cool.  This  I  have  found  one  of 
the  best  salves  for  all  skin  diseases  I 
have  ever  tried.  Apply  twice  a  day,  but 
use  with  care  since  it  contains  mercury. 

HAIR  OILS  AJfD  HAIR  DRESSINGS. 

While  oiling  the  hair  is  a  thing  of 
the  past,  we  might  indulge  a  few  re- 
marks as  a  matter  of  history.  Thirty 
years  ago  almost  every  customer  used 
oil  on  his  hair,  and  every  barber  was 
expected  to  know  how  to  mix  his  own 
oils.  A  favorite  preparation  was  made 
as  follows:  1  pint  of  alcohol  and  1| 
pints  of  castor-oil  were  shaken  to- 
gether, and  then  perfumed  with  citron- 
ella  or  bergamot. 

Another  favorite  was  made  of   rac- 
coon oil  and  lard  mixed  half  and  half, 
and  perfumed  with  the  oil  of  cloves. 
25 


Some  used  the  coon  oil  straight: 
others  used  the  oil  of  birds,  geese, 
chickens  or  ducks,  etc.  Bear  oil  was 
considered  a  great  oil  for  the  hair  as 
well  as  for  many  other  purposes.  My 
own  favorite  among  all  the  home  made 
preparations  was  made  from  beef 
marrow.  The  marrow  was  tried  out 
and  a  little  salt  was  added.  The  oil 
was  then  perfumed  with  bergamot. 

POMADES. 

In  selecting  material  for  pomade, 
have  a  butcher  get  you  some  fine  leaf 
lard  and  some  of  the  finest  suet,  which 
should  be  taken  from  young  animals. 
Render  out  separately  in  porcelain  ves- 
sels and  strain  oflf. 

Directions. — Take  lard  1  pound,  tal- 
low 1  pound;  mix  them  and  heat  gently, 
and  cook  for  one  hour  over  a  slow  fire ; 
remove  and  let  stand  a  few  minutes  to 
settle;  now  pour  off  carefully.  AVheii 
almost  cold  add  some  suitable  perfume, 
26 


say  oil  of  bergamot  4  drachms,  oil  of 
lemon  3  drachms,  oil  of  cassia  2 
drachms,  oil  of  nutmeg  75  drops.  Mix 
thoroughly  y/ith  the  pomade  and  pour 
into  small  jars. 

STICK  POMADES. 

Take  of  the  prepared  tallow  1  pound, 
pure,  clean  bees  wax  3  ounces,  gum 
benzoin,  in  a  coarse  powder,  1 J  drachms. 
Melt  together  with  a  slow  heat,  mixing 
all  the  while.  When  partly  cooled  add 
some  suitable  perfume.  Pour  it  off  in 
moulds  and  when  cold  take  out  and 
wrap  in  tin  foil,  then  put  on  a  nice 
label  as  outer  coverinof. 

To  make  the  above  into  a  coloring- 
pomade,  take  3  pounds  of  the  prepared 
lard  and  tallow,  before  being  p3rfumed; 
add  to  it  2  pounds  of  fresh  walnut  hulls, 
cut  up  fine;  put  into  a  porcelain  vessel 
and  heat  gently  for  four  hours.  Take 
off  and  strain,  and  proceed  as  in  making 
the  black  pomade.  This  will  gradually 
27 


color  the  hair  or  beard  to  a  nice  brown 
by  being  used  daily  until  the  desired 
shade  is  obtained. 

HOW  TO   STOP  BLOOD. 

Every  barber  should  have  at  hand  a 
preparation  for  stopping  blood.  The 
})estof  barbers  are  liable  to  bring  blood 
from  rough  or  tender  faces.  An  as- 
stringent  pencil,  which  is  very  good 
and  very  handy,  may  be  obtained  from 
the  barber  supply  houses  in  the  cities 
at  a  cost  of  only  lU  cents  each.  How- 
ever, I  prefer  MdnselFs  Powdered  Iron 
which  may  be  oljtained  from  any  drug 
store.  The  only  ol^joction  to  it  is,  it  is 
liable  to  discolor  the  skin.  However, 
by  being  careful  to  put  on  only  a  small 
amount,  it  may  easily  be  washed  oti' 
when  the  blood  has  ceased  to  ooze. 

If  a  small  bump  has  been  cut  off  or 
a  shallow  cut  made  in  the  smooth  skin, 
it  will  generally  suffice  to  cover  it 
28 


A  ith  a  thick  lather  and  let  it  remain  until 
the  shaving  is  completed. 

Alum  is  also  used  but  is  too  slow  in 
its  action. 

HAIR  RESTORERS. 

I  could  give  a  formula  that  would 
make  the  hair  fall  out,  but  thus  far  I 
have  not  been  able  to  find  a  preparation 
that  will  produce  a  new  grow^th  of  hair 
on  bald  heads  As  a  preventative  treat- 
ment I  might  suggest  as  follows: 

Boil  burdock  root  in  soft  water  until 
strong,  and  then  add  to  one  pint  of  it,  a 
half  pint  of  alcohol,  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  1  ounce  of  glycerine.  This 
used  once  a  day  will  prevent  the  hair 
from  falling  out.  Or  make  a  strong 
decoction  of  black  tea  or  sage  and  mix 
with  the  alcohol,  salt,  and  glycerine 
as  above  and  use  as  above. 

The  basis  of  most  hair  tonics  is  the 
tincture  of  cantharides,  quinine,  am- 
monia camphor,  and  salt.  A  solution 
29 


of  borax  in  camphor  water  is  used  hy 
some  as  a  stimulant  for  the  scalp.  I 
have  a  friend  Avho  is  experimenting  on 
a  new  line  with  very  encouraging  i)ros- 
pects  of  successfully  producing  hair  on 
bald  heads.  If  any  party  interested 
will  address  me  a  few  months  hence,  I 
may  be  able  to  advise  them  how  to  re- 
produce hair  on  Ijald  heads. 

GLASS  HONES. 

A  glass  hone  is  easily  made,  and  no 
barber  should  be  without  one.  Pro- 
cure a  piece  of  heavy  plate  glass  and 
have  a  glass  cutter  cut  it  into  pieces 
3x8  inches  in  dimensions.  Take  the 
gloss  off  the  face  and  also  around  the 
edges  on  a  grindstone,  and  then  finish 
l)y  rubbing  the  face  of  the  hone  with 
})umice-stone  kept  wet  with  water. 
Continue  this  rubbing  until  the  gloss  is 
entirely  removed  and  the  hone  is 
smooth.  Before  honing  take  a  rubber, 
such  as  is  used  on  a  water  hone,  and, 
30 


after  ^vetting  hone  nib  until  you  have 
a  sort  of  lather.  Hone  on  this  as  you 
would  on  any  other  hone.  You  will 
lind  it  excellent  for  smoothing  shears 
after  grinding,  or  a  razor  after  having 
been  over  honed. 

MUGS,  BRUSHES  AND   SOAPS. 

The  mug  should  be  large  and  heavy 
and  the  brush  used  to  make  the  lather 
should  also  be  large  and  first-class  in 
every  particular.  In  regard  to  brushes, 
I  would  suggest  that  it  pays  to  buy  the 
very  best. 

A  poor  brush  that  is  continually 
shedding  hairs  is  very  annoying  to  the 
customer,  and  it  hinders  the  barl)er.  I 
prefer  the  rubbev  fer ruled  brush,  but 
be  sure  to  get  the  genuine. 

In  regard  to  soap  I  must  admit  that 
I  am  partial  to  the  J.  B.  AVilliams  bar- 
ber soap.  However,  there  are  other 
brands  that  give  good  satisfaction. 
31 


There  are  no  soaps  too  good.     Hence 
get  the  best. 

FACE  POWDERS. 

There  is  nothing  much  better  than 
cake  magnesia,  Init  it  should  only  be 
used  to  dry  the  face  after  shaving.  I 
have  given  a  liquid  whiting  which  is 
much  used  by  ladies.  I  have  often  used 
it  on  men  to  whiten  the  skin.  See 
whitening  for  the  face. 

SHOWER  BATH  AND  SHAMPOO  CAN. 

Take  a  common  tin  bucket  whicli 
holds  three  gallons,  have  a  small  tube 
one  inch  long  and  one  quarter  of  an 
inch  in  diameter  put  in  one  side  about 
one  half  inch  from  ])ottom  of  bucket. 

Then  get  a  rubljer  hose  three  feet 
long  of  suitable  diameter  to  fit  on  to 
the  tube.  At  the  other  extremity  of 
the  hose  attach  a  sprinkler  with  its  tub- 
ular end  made  to  fit  the  hose. 

Connect  the  hose  to  bucket  and  the 
32 


I 


sprinkler  to  hose,  {ind  the  can  is  com- 
plete. 

Lay  the  sprinkler  over  the  upper 
rim  of  can  ( or  bucket )  to  keep  the 
water  from  flowing  out.  Fill  with  soft 
warm  water ;  and,  when  ready  to  take 
the  bath  or  shampoo,  hang  from  ceiling 
or  set  on  shelf  high  enough  to  allow  the 
water  to  flow  over  the  head  and  body. 

Put  on  the  shampoo.  Take  the 
sprinkler  and  thoroughly  wash  and 
rinse. 

Three  gallons  of  water  used  in  this 
way  is  ])etter  than  a  whole  l)ath  tub  full 
used  in  the  ordinary  way.  This  appar- 
atus of  course  applies  to  country  places 
where  they  have  not  the  advantage  of 
water  works,  or  where  the  water  fur- 
nished is  hard. 

TOWELS,   HAIR  CLOTHS,  AND  FACE 
CLOTHS. 

If  you  would  secure  first-class  trade, 
you  must  keep  a  good  supply  of  clean 
33 


ffoocl  lookinjr  towels.  Nc^tliinii-  is  more 
disgusting  in  a  shop  than  a  lot  of  dirty 
ragged  towels. 

The  workmen  may  be  tirst-class,  the 
tools  first-class,  etc. ;  but  unless  the 
towels  are  in  proper  condition  the  bet- 
ter class  of  trade  will  go  elsewhere. 

I  prefer  a  good  moderate  sized  cotton 
towel,  except  for  the  wash  cloth,  where 
I  prefer  a  cotton  crash  towel  on  the 
order  of  a  bath  towel. 

This  crash  comes  in  bolts  and  may 
be  cut  the  desired  length;  it  must,  how- 
ever, be  hemmed.  For  the  l)ath  always 
use  a  good  towel  l)ut  not  too  large. 

The  breast  cloth  made  of  calico  or 
gingham,  should  be  full  width  of  goods, 
and  not  less  than  three  and  a  half  feet 
long.  It  should  have  a  half  neck  open- 
ing at  one  side  made  to  fit  up  around 
the  neck. 

The  hair  cloth  may  be  made  of  cal- 
ico, gingham  or  bleached  sheeting.  If 
the  sheeting  is  used  get  the  goods  wide 
34 


enough  to  require  no  seam,  and  then 
border  with  a  two  inch  band  of  red 
oiled  calico. 

SUGGESTIONS  FOR  BEGINNERS. 

In  the  first  place,  if  you  have  made 
up  your  mind  to  be  a  barber,  why  not 
be  a  good  one.  There  is  always  room 
at  the  top,  and  rich  reward  for  him  who 
has  reached  the  top.  Rich  reward, 
however,  is  the  price  of  self-exertion. 
Do  not  wait  for  a  tidal  wave  to  waft 
you  on  to  success.  The  minions  of 
fortune  are  few  and  far  between.  You 
must  not  only  work  but  you  must  em- 
brace every  opportunity  to  improve 
your  qualifications',  if  you  would 
achieve  success  in  this  age  of  advanced 
knoAvledo^e  and  skill.  You  should 
always  be  on  the  alert,  and  never  miss 
an  opportunity  to  acquire  useful  inform- 
ation. Knowledge  is  power,  and  it 
behooves  you  to  gain  all  the  knowledge 
you  can,  especially  of  your  own  busi- 
35 


ness.  If  necessary  pay  for  it,  work  for 
it,  or  even  beg  for  it.  The  possession 
of  a  good  fund  of  practical  knowledge 
with  other  necessary  qualities  of  mind 
and  heart,  will  enal^le  one  to  wear  good 
clothes,  make  plenty  of  money  and  to 
have  scores  of  friends;  while  the  lack 
of  it  will  make  another  the  digger  of 
ditches,  living  in  rags  and  poverty,  and 
deprived  of  the  more  congenial  com- 
panionship of  the  l)etter  and  nobler  ele- 
ments of  society.      Knowledge  pays. 

Moreover,  while  you  should  attend 
Avell  to  the  proper  equipment  of  your 
mind,  you  should  rtot  neglect  the 
proper  cultivation  of  your  social  char- 
acter. Especially  should  you  cultivate 
what  might  be  termed  a  practical  busi- 
ness social  tact. 

Treat  every  customer  as  though  your 
success  depended  upon  him  and  him 
alone,  and  alwa3^s  exert  your  utmost  to 
do  good  work.  Much  depends  upon 
the  barber's  ability  to  shave  well.  To 
36 


accomplish  the  great  desideratam  of 
being  able  to  shave  well  each  one  of 
the  various  customers  with  their  vary- 
ing qualities  of  beard,  you  must  dili- 
gently study  the  temper  of  your  razors 
with  reference  to  the  peculiar  beard  of 
each  customer.  Again  much  depends 
upon  the  lather,  the  brush,  the  hone, 
the  strop,  etc.  Hence  you  will  please 
pardon  a  few  simple  primary  sugges- 
tions leading  up  to  a  good  shave.  First 
you  must  equip  yourself  with  first-class 
tools. 

Procure  a  first-class  oil  hone. 

A  larofe  rubber  f erruled  lather  brush. 

A  large  heavy  shaving  mug. 

A  half  dozen  No.  1  razors,  4^  to  4f 
wide  and  f  concave. 

Your  soap  and  all  other  materials 
and  implements  should  be  as  good  as 
you  are  able  to  buy. 

When  you  hone  your  razor  on  the 
oil  hone,  use  good  soap  and  make  a 
stiff  lather  which  you  will  spread  on  the 
37 


hone.  Then  place  the  razor  on  the  hone 
and  (IraAV  very  lightly  from  heel  to 
point  so  that  the  edge  of  the  razor 
will  always  be  on  the  front  side  of  the 
moving  blade.  Each  stroke  across  the 
hone  should  be  a  sloping  or  sawing 
stroke,  and  at  the  end  of  each  the  razor 
should  be  turned  on  the  back  and 
pushed  up  across  the  end  of  the  hone, 
and  the  other  side  of  the  ])lade  laid 
flat  on  the  hone.  Then  draw  the  razor 
back  with  a  curving  or  angular  stroke 
to  the  other  end  of  the  hone.  Turn 
again  as  before  and  continue  with  steady 
stroke  until  you  think  the  blade  is 
sharp.  Wet  the  thumb  nail  and  try  the 
edge  by  drawing  it  lightly  from  end  to 
end.  Should  the  edge  feel  blunt  or 
rough  make  a  feAV  more  strokes  on  the 
hone  and  try  again,  and  so  on  until  the 
edge  is  satisfactory.  A  better  way  to 
test  the  edge,  if  }'ou  have  a  smooth  soft 
hand,  is  to  wet  the  end  of  thumb  or 
fore  finger  and  draw  the  razor  lightly 
38 


over  it  feeling  of  the  edge.  However, 
it  requires  practice  to  tell  with  certainty 
by  either  method.  Therefore  practice 
carefully  until  you  become  expert. 

We  will  here  make  a  few  suggestions 
in  regard  to  the  different  hones 
generally  used  by  barbers.  The 
oil  hone,  which  is  supposed  to  be 
petrified  hickory,  is  the  one  most  used, 
and  is  perhaps  the  best.  Second  in  rank 
and  general  use  comes  the  Swatty  hone 
which  is  made  from  the  same  material 
as  the  emery  wheel,  but  it  is  of  finer 
grade.  This  is  a  very  fast  cutting 
hone.  Next  comes  the  water  hone 
which  is  simply  a  fine  grit  stone,  and 
then  comes  the  glass  hone  which  is  but 
little  used.  A  few  barbers  use  it  to 
take  off  the  wire  edge  of  over-honed 
razors.  Hones  should  be  handled  with 
great  qare.  In  honing  the  razor  should 
l)e  run  well  out  to  the  ends  to  prevent 
hollowing  the  hone.  Should  a  hone 
begin  to  hollow,  work  it  down  with  fine 
39 


sand  paper  to  a  perfect  face  and  snKjoth 
it  with  the  ru})l)er  used  on  the  water 
hones.  I  prefer  olive  oil  on  an  oil 
hone  if  carefully  used.  Of  course  lather 
may  be  used  on  an  oil  hone  the  same  as 
on  the  Swatty  and  glass  hones.  Use 
water  on  the  Avater  hone  and  rul>  Avith 
the  rub  stone  commonly  used  until  the 
surface  is  covered  with  a  sort  of  soapy 
pasty  lather  before  honing.  The  glass 
hone  may  be  used  in  the  same  manner. 
Any  hone  when  not  in  use  should  be 
wrapped  up  and  laid  away  carefully 
after  having  been  washed  and  thor- 
oughly cleaned. 

You  should  be  provided  with  a  good 
shell  strop,  or  a  good  Russian  leather 
strop,  and  also  a  good  canvas  strop. 
After  honing  strop  the  razor  lightly  on 
the  leather  only.  The  canvas  should 
not  be  used  except  when  the  razor  has 
become  smooth.  When  you  have  a 
customer  in  the  chair,  first  put  a  clean 
towel  on  him  and  proceed  to  make  the 
40 


I.'iihcr  iisinu:  w.'irm  soft  waU^'.  L.'ithor 
\\m  tiiv\)  ;ui(l  scour  tJu^  I)(\'M"(I,  mihI  l.luiii 
I.mIJum"  ;iiz;M'm  with  a  i^ood  lK\'ivy  l.-itliei-. 
Ti-occhmI  to  shnvo,  (lrji\viii<i;  tlio  razor 
with  a,  sa\viM^-  strokes,  and  make  tlic 
strokes  as  loiii^  as  practicable.  Hold 
the  skin  lii^ht  to  throw  out  the  board, 
and  fro  over  tho  face  the  first  time  as 
(juickly  as  possible.  Thi^ii  wash  the 
soap  JToin  the  t'acH^,  and  ^o  ()V(5r  it  a 
second  time,  ke(5pin^- the<  skin  somewhat 
stretch(Ml,  and  wet  with  soft  water. 
Whenlinished,  i)ress  a  hot  towel  to  the 
face  and  then  use  one  of  the  face  creams 
iiiven  in  this  book. 

Next  p()W(h5r  the  face,  and  curl  and 
perfume  tlie  mustaclie.  If  you  think 
his  hair  needs  trimming  tell  him  so, 
and  if  he  has  it  done,  do  your  very 
best,  even  taking'  pains  to  cut  the  hair 
out  of  his  ears.  Shave  his  nock.  The 
most  important  point  is  to  get  a  good 
edge  on  the  hair. 

If  he  takes  a  shampoo,  first  give  tho 
41' 


scalp  a  good  ])i'ushing  to  loosen  the 
(landrutf,  and  then  use  Silver  Gloss 
Shampoo,  giving  liiiu  to  understand 
that  you  have  it  for  sale  for  family 
use.  Rinse  hair  with  warm  soft  water, 
and  dry  with  a  line  bath  towel,  and  then 
ask  him  if  you  shall  apply  some  of  the 
hair  tonic  which  will  cost  him  only  ten 
cents  extra. 

Comb  his  hair  in  the  latest  style, 
a,ndif  he  desires  it,  color  his  mustache 
with  the  celebrated  German  Hair  Dye. 
Help  him  into  his  coat,  and  thanking 
him  Ijid  him  come  again. 

Purchase  every  good  book  pertaining 
to  your  business,  study  diligently  and 
practice  what  you  learn,  and  you  will 
soon  stand  abreast  with  the  l)est  and 
most  progressive  barbers.  You  should 
be  prompted  by  no  meaner  ambition. 

SUCCESS. 

''  If  you  wish  success  in  life. 

Make  perseverance  your  bosom  friend. 

Experience  your  wise  counselor, 

Caution  your  elder  brother. 
And  hope  your  guardian  genius. " 

.42  Addison. 


I 


ss 


Dxidermist  $  IDanuaK 

By  T.  J.  McCONNAUGHAY. 
8S 


43 


Caxidermisfs  manual 

By  T.  J.  McCONNAUGHAY. 


The  word  taxidermy  is  derived  from 
the  two  Greek  words,  taxis,  which 
means  arrangement,  and  derma  which 
means  skin.  Hence  this  term  is  ap- 
plied to  the  art  of  preserving  and 
mounting  the  skins  of  animals  for  orna- 
mental and  scientific  purposes.  Little  is 
known  of  the  origin  of  this  art,  but  it 
would  seem  from  books  of  travel  and 
natural  history,  that  it  is  at  most,  not 
more  than  three  hundred  years  old.  It 
began  to  be  practiced  in  England  about 
the  beo'innino^  of  the  18th  centurv, 
which  fact  is  proven  from  the  ''Sloane 
Collection"  which  was  formed  in  1825, 
15 


as  the  nucleus  of  the  present  natural 
history  collection  lodged  in  the  gal- 
leries of  South  Kensington.  It  was 
about  the  middle  of  the  iHih  century 
that  the  first  ])ook  devoted  to  the  prin- 
ciples of  taxidermy  was  pul)lished  in 
France.  After  this,  others  appeared 
from  time  to  time  in  France  and  Ger- 
many, but  England  contributed  no  lit- 
erature on  the  subject  until  about  the 
beginning  of  the  present  century.  In 
1828  an  Englishman  named  Scudder, 
established  a  museum  of  mounted  speci- 
mens in  an  old  alms  house  in  Xew  York 
City.  Previous  to  this,  the  art  seems 
to  have  l)een  absolutely  unknown  in 
America.  It  was  not  till  the  exhil)i- 
tion  of  1851,  that  the  French  and  Ger- 
man taxidermists  taught  the  English 
the  principles  of  scientific  treatment. 

Since  that  time  several  works  have 

appeared  from  the  pens  of  English  and 

American  authors.   Prominently  among 

the    American  writers,    were    Charles 

16 


Waterton  and  Titian  R.  Peale  who 
greatly  improved  the  art  in  this  coun- 
try. 

Jules  Verreaux,  of  Paris,  brought 
the  art  to  a  still  higher  perfection,  and 
introduced  methods  for  giving  to  speci- 
mens a  life-like  expression,  which  ele- 
vated it  quite  to  the  realm  of  higher  art. 
Great  were  his  accomplishments  in  the 
art  of  expressing  the  actions  and  char- 
acteristic attitudes  of  the  living  ani- 
mals. Since  his  day  taxidermy  has 
rivaled  the  plastic  art,  and  today,  it  has 
reached  such  a  degree  of  perfection 
that  the  most  artistic  and  ctsthetic 
effects  may  be  wrought  Ijy  the  hands  of 
any  operator  Avho  possesses  artistic  fac- 
ulties. The  IlliiTois  State  Natural  His- 
tory Society  of  Bloomington,  pul)lished 
an  illustrated  pamphlet  from  the  pen 
of  one  Mr.  Holder,  which  is  a  very  val- 
uable contril^ution  to  taxidermic  liter- 
ature. The  author  w^as  doubtless 
greatly  improved  by  his  associations 
47 


with  Au(liil)uii  and  Bell,  and  in  his 
hook  he  gives  the  results  of  a  ripe  ex- 
l)erience.  This  book  ranks  as  one  of 
the  best  yet  published.  We  submit 
the  results  of  our  own  patient  study 
and  i)ractical  ex{)erience,  and  hope  it 
may  prove  a  worthy  atldition. 


ARTICLE  I. 

ON    SKINNING,   STUFFING  AND    PRESERVA- 
TION   OF   BIRDS. 


SKINNING. 

Immediately  after 
the  bird  is  killed,  the  nos- 
trils, throat  and  wounds 
should  be  stuffed  with 
cotton  to  prevent  the 
blood  from  oozing  out 
and  staining  the  plu- 
mage; but  should  any 
blood  get  on  the  plu- 
mage, it  should  be  re- 
moved as  soon    as  i)os- 

48 


sible.  This  can  be  done  by  taking  a 
cloth  or  sponge  and  dipping  it  in  clean 
water,  wringing  it  out  so  as  to  leave  it 
only  moist,  and  rubbing  the  feathers 
gently  until  all  traces  of  blood  stain  are 
removed.  Now  sprinkle  the  feathers 
with  plaster  of  paris,  and  shake  out 
before  it  sets.  Repeat  this  until  they  are 
perfectly  dry, 
and  then  wrap 
the  specimen  in 
paper  to  protect 
the  plumage  un- 
til ready  to  skin, 
which  should  be 
done  as  soon  as 
the  bird  cools. 

In  proceeding 
to  skin  a  bird, 
spread  a  cloth  on  a  board  or  table  and 
lay  the  bird  on  its  back.  Separate  the 
feathers  on  the  breast  with  a  scalpel  or 
knife.  Insert  the  knife  at  the  top  of 
breast-bone  and  cut  the  skin  from  there 
49 


to  the  tail.  Great  care  should  be  taken 
not  to  cut  too  deep  over  the  intestines, 
as  it  is  only  necessary  to  cut  through 
the  skin.  Now  begin  where  you  first 
inserted  the  knife  and  proceed  to  sepa- 
rate the  skin  from  the  flesh,  either  with 
the  fingers  or  the  back  of  the  scalpel  or 
knife.  Tear  some  small  pieces  of 
paper,  say  about  an  inch  square,  and 
jnit  under  the  skin  on  the  flesh  as  you 
get  them  separated,  which  will  keep 
the  feathers  from  sticking  to  the  flesh 
and  l)ecoming  soiled ;  or  sprinkling 
cornmeal  over  the  flesh  and  skin  while 
skinning,  will  answer  the  same  pur- 
pose. Press  carefully  down  each  side 
to  backbone.  Now  press  the  thighs  for- 
ward and  inward,  draw  the  skin  from 
the  thighs,  unjointing  them  at  the  fir.st 
joint  from  the  body. 

The  skin  is  now  removed  over  the 
rump,    and  the  tail  unjointed,  taking- 
care    not   to    injure   the  tail  feathers. 
Now  for  convenience,  take  a  cord  and 
50 


fasten  it  to  a  nail  on  the  wall  or  oeilinff, 
put  a  wire  hook  on  the  other  end,  and 
fasten  in  the  bird  so  you  can  suspend 
it  high  enough  above  the  table  to  work 
on  it  easily.  Now  pull  the  skin  down- 
wards until  you  get  to  the  wings, 
which  are  to  be  un jointed  at  the  shoul- 
der joint.  It  is  then  pulled  down  over 
the  skull  until  the  ears  are  reached. 
Here  many  valuable  specimens  are 
spoiled  by  cutting  the  ears  too  close  to 
the  skin,  so  be  sure  to  cut  the  ears 
close  to  the  skull. 

The  eyelids  are  often  spoiled  also  by 
inexperienced  hands.  Be  sure  and  cut 
them  well  back  and,  if  necessary,  trim 
them  afterwards.  Now  remove  the  eye- 
balls and  unjoint  the  skull  from  the 
neck,  enlarge  the  opening  at  the  base 
of  skull,  where  the  neck  came  off,  and 
remove  the  brain  with  spoon  made 
for  that  purpose.  Now  remove  the 
flesh  from  the  this^h  bone  down  to 
knee  joint,  and  turn  them  back  in  place; 
51 


then  skill  the  winofs  out  to  first  joint 
and  remove  the  tiesh.  There  is  yet  one 
job  and  the  skinning  process  is  com- 
pleted. Divide  the  feathers  on  the  un- 
der side  of  the  Aving  between  the  second 
and  third  joints,  cut  the  skin,  and  with 
a  sharp  knife  cut  out  all  flesh  from  the 
bone,  and  put  in  some  of  the  preserving 
powder;  cover  it  with  a  little  cotton 
and  sew  it  up,  l)eing  careful  not  to  draw 
any  of  the  feathers  in;  press  the  feath- 
ers down  smooth,  and  see  that  each  is 
in  its  proper  place. 

There  are  some  birds  with  large 
heads  and  small  necks.  With  these  we 
cannot  draw  the  skin  over  the  head, 
but  have  to  push  the  skin  as  near  the 
head  as  it  is  possil)le,  and  cut  ofl'  the 
neck  bone;  then  make  an  opening  un- 
der the  throat  large  enough  to  turn  out 
the  skull  and  the  remaining  part  of  the 
neck  bone,  and  proceed  to  skin  the  skull, 
take  out  brain,  etc.,  as  directed  hereto- 
fore. The  flesh  must  be  carefully  re- 
52 


moved  from  all  parts  of  the  skin,  and 
the  preserving  powder  applied,  ))eing 
very  careful  that  all  parts  are  well  })ow- 
dered. 

If  you  now  wish  to  mount  the  bird 
it  can  })e  done  immediately. 

STUFFING  BIRDS. 

In  the  first  place  take  some  plaster 
paris,  mix  it  with  water  to  a  stiff  paste, 
and  fill  the  eye-sockets  with  it,  then 
press  the  glass  eye  in  the  paris,  using 
great  care  to  set  them  in  as  near  a  nat- 
ural position  as  possible.  When  the 
plaster  has  hardened,  which  it  does 
very  quickly,  if  the  skin  has  l^ecome 
dry,  dampen  it  with  a  damp  sponge, 
and  turn  it  back  over  the  skull,  then 
lay  the  bird  on  the  table  and  proceed 
to  put  in  the  frame,  stuff  and  sew  up. 

I  give  three  kinds  of  frames.      One 

is  the  wire  and  wood  frame,  which  you 

see  on  page  78,  Figs.  9  and  10.     The 

others,  wire  frames,  on  page  80,  Fig.  3, 

53 


for  birds;  also  Fig.  11,  for  humming 
birds  and  other  small  ])irds,  on  page  78. 
Take  frame  described  Nos.  9  and  1<), 
having  the  leg  wire  AA  detached  from 
body  board,  fill  the  neck  with  tow,  be- 
ing careful  not  to  fill  "it  too  full;  run 
neck  wire  E  through  the  center  of  the 
neck  and  pass  it  out  at  the  top  of  head, 
as  shown  in  Figs.  2  and  3,  or  through 
one  of  the  nostrils.  1  prefer  the  latter, 
because  it  does  not  break  the  skin  and 
holds  the  head  more  steady.  Then  put 
the  tail  support  E  through  the  center 
or  heavy  part  of  the  tail,  raise  the  body 
board  and  place  under  it  some  tow  or 
cotton;  or  pad  the  board  by  placing 
some  cotton  on  it  and  tacking  some 
cloth  over  it  to  keep  the  frame  off  from 
the  back;  then  take  the  leg  wires,  Fig. 
13,  AA  and  put  them  in  the  legs,  as 
shown  in  cut  No.  3,  and  fasten  on  to  the 
body  Ijoard  with  blind  staples,  as  repre- 
sented in  cut  No.  3;  proceed  with  the 
stufling;  finish  filling  out  the  neck  and 
54 


breast,  shaping  it  while  filling,  using 
care  not  to  get  it  too  full,  as  that  is  a 
fault  of  most  beginners;  after  filling  it 
down  to  the  opening,  the  next  should 
be  the  legs;  if  the  leg  bone  is  left  in 
from  the  knee  up,  wrap  it  to  the  leg 
wire  with  a  strip  of  muslin  and  tie  it; 
then  stuff  the  leg  up  to  the  body,  fill 
the  body  and  sew  up;  in  sewing  be  care- 
ful not  to  draw  any  of  the  feathers 
doAvn  with  the  thread.  After  it  is  all 
sewed  up,  place  all  the  feathers  down 
smooth  and  in  their  proper  place,  as 
much  depends  on  this. 

Next  place  the  specimen  on  a  board 
or  perch;  if  on  a  board,  procure  a  suit- 
able one,  bore  two  holes  the  size  of  the 
leg  wires  through  it,  then  make  a 
groove  on  the  under  side  of  board  run- 
ning off  from  each  hole  to  lay  wire 
down  in;  place  the  specimen  on  the 
board,  running  the  leg  wires  through 
it,  and  draw  the  wires  down  until  the 
legs  set  in  proper  position,  bend  the 
55 


wires  down  into  the  grooves  and  fasten 
tliom  with  small  ])lind  staples.  In  this 
connection  one  should  use  his  own  judg- 
ment in  placing  the  bird  on  the  board; 
one  leg  should  generally  be  placed  a  litr 
tie  in  advance  of  the  other.  If  the  bird 
is  to  be  placed  on  a  limb  perch,  bore 
the  holes  through  the  limb,  place  the 
])ird  on,  and  draw  the  wires  tight,  and 
drive  a  wooden  wedge  in  beside  the 
wire  to  hold  it,  then  file  the  wire  off 
close  to  the  under  side  of  the  perch. 
Pose  the  bird  in  as  natural  a  position  as 
you  can,  imitating  nature  as  near  as 
possible.  Place  the  wings  in  position, 
then  take  a  piece  of  wire  heavy  enough 
to  hold  the  wings  in  place.  Sharpen  one 
end,  and  make  a  square  turn  about  one- 
fourth  of  an  inch  from  the  other  end 
to  keep  it  from  pulling  through  the  wing. 
Now  place  the  wings  in  proper  shape. 
Pass  the  wire  through  the  Avings  and  body 
in  a  way  to  hold  them  in  shape.  Pull 
the  wire  until  the  turn  on  the  one  end 
56 


presses  against  the  wing.  Cut  the  wire 
on  other  side  of  bird  and  turn  it  back, 
as  on  the  other  side,  so  that  the  wire 
cannot  be  pulled  either  way;  then  ar- 
range the  whole  body — wings,  neck, 
tail,  head,  etc.  In  case  the  specimen 
is  a  web-footed  bird,  take  a  thin  piece 
of  board,  say  from  a  cigar  box,  cut  it 
to  fit  in  between  the  toes,  and  tack 
them  in  to  hold  the  web  in  shape  while 
drying.  This  should  be  removed  when 
dry.  After  all  is  completed  bathe  the 
buts  of  wings,  the  feet,  legs  and  beak, 
with  the  preserving  fluid;  this  should 
be  repeated  for  three  or  four  days. 
Then  let  the  specimen  dry  in  a  shady 
place.  It  can  then  be  placed  on  another 
board  or  perch  and  set  in  the  cal)inet. 

MOUNTING  BIRDS  ON  WIRE  FRAME. 

(See  directions  for  making*  frame.) 

Skin  the  bird  and  prepare  it  as 
directed  in  this  article.  Fill  the  neck 
with  tow,  put  in  neck  Avire,  letting  the 

57 


end  come  out  through  the  nostril;  bend 
leg  Avires  AA  Ixick  so  as  to  get  them 
in  the  legs;  run  them  down  on  the  in- 
side of  the  leg,  or  through  the  center 
of  leg  bone,  and  come  out  in  the  center 
of  the  foot.  (See  cuts  Nos.  2  and  3.) 
Put  tail  support  E  through  the  under 
part  of  the  tail,  and  proceed  as  di- 
rected heretofore  in  this  article,  to 
stuff,  sew  up,  etc. 

Where  the  tow  can  not  be  secured 
and  you  have  to  use  cotton  in  stuffing, 
always  put  in  the  neck  wire  first,  and 
stuff"  around  it  or  wrap  the  neck  wire 
with  strips  of  muslin,  old  calico,  or 
anything  that  can  be  used  for  that  pur- 
pose, always  being  careful  not  to  make 
the  neck  too  large.  Excelsior  can  be 
used  to  irood  advantage  in  stuffingf  laro^e 
bodies. 

PELICANS. 

In  dressing  a  pelican  always  use  the 
board  and  wire  frame.     For  position, 

58 


copy  after  some  picture  of  the  bird, 
which  you  can  find  in  any  natural  his- 
tory. The  only  difference  in  dressing 
from  the  goose,  etc.,  is  they  have  a 
game  sack  under  the  lower  jaw,  which 
is  often  as  much  as  ten  inches  wide  and 
sixteen  inches  long.  I  find  the  best 
way  to  dress  that  is  to  take  a  fine  shin- 
gle, wide  and  long  enough,  and  trim  it 
in  the  shape  of  a  sleigh  runner,  and 
put  it  inside  of  the  pouch  or  game  sack, 
with  the  straight  edge  up  and  the 
square  end  toward  the  neck.  Draw 
the  pouch  smooth  over  the  shingle, 
and  tie  the  bill  together,  then  wet  well 
with  the  solution  of  corrosive  subli- 
mate. The  board  should  he  left  in. 
Wire  can  be  bent  and  placed  in  to  an- 
swer the  same  purpose. 

PEA-FOWL. 

In   dressing  a  pea-fowl,    where   the 
wings  and  tail  have  to  be  spread,  extra 
wires  have  to  be  put  in.      The  wires 
59 


for  the  winofs  are  fastened  on  to  the 
body  l)o:ir.l,  as  when  used  for  the  fore 
leirs  of  animals.  Then,  for  the  tail 
support,  take  a  wire  about  five  feet 
long  and  bend  it  in  a  hoop  shape,  leav- 
ing enough  of  the  ends  to  extend  into 
and  fasten  on  the  body  board.  This 
must  ])e  [)ut  on  the  board  before  put- 
ting it  in  the  body.  Dress  the  bird  as 
others,  letting  the  hoop  or  tail  support 
extend  out  under  the  tail.  After  it  is 
all  stuffed  and  set  on  the  board,  bend 
the  tail  support  up  back  of  tail,  and 
fasten  the  feathers  of  the  tail  to  it  by 
trN'ing  them,  one  at  a  time,  with  a  heavy 
thread,  in  such  a  way  that  when  all  are 
fastened  to  the  wire  they  will  stand  as 
when  the  bird  Avas  strutting.  Arrange 
the  wings  and  body  to  suit  and  let  dry. 

DKESSINO   BIRDS  WITH  WINGS  SPREAD. 

To  dress  a  bird  with    wings   spread, 
either  flying  or  sitting,  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  put  in  wing  wires  to    hold   the 
00 


wings  out.  The  easiest  way  is  to  use  the 
wire  and  board  frame,  using  the  in'ont 
leg  wires  as  used  in  animals,  for  the 
wings.  See  Figs.  7  and  8,  board  and 
body  frame. 

In  dressing  a  bird  this  way,  after 
skinning  and  wiring,  as  directed  for 
bird,  using  frames  9  and  10,  put  in  the 
wing  wires  and  fasten  them  to  body 
board,  as  directed  for  forelegs  of  ani- 
mals. 

If  wishing  to  represent  the  bird  as 
flying,  take  four  cords  and  fasten  them 
to  the  back  of  the  bird  in  a  way  that 
will  balance  it ;  tie  them  together  a  few 
inches  above  the  back  and  extend  one 
cord  longer  than  the  others.  It  can 
now  be  hung  from  the  ceiling  by  the 
cord;  this  will  let  the  specimen  turn 
about  and  present  a  fine  appearance. 
The  feet  should  be  placed  in  as  hear  a 
natural  position  as  possible  as  when 
flying.  In  all  large  footed  birds  use 
plenty  of  the  solution  of  corrosive  sub- 
61 


liinate  or  turpentine.  The  carbolic  acid 
and  Avater  mixture  is  also  used,  and  is 
good. 

TO    CLEAN    FEATHERS. 

As  a  test  case  take  a  bird  after  kill- 
ing and  smear  it  all  over  with  blood, 
let  it  lie  until  dry.  Then  put  it  in  a 
])a'sin,  and  give  it  a  good  washing  with 
soa})  and  water,  then  rinse  it  clean. 
Now  take  a  dry  cloth  and  wii)e  it  until 
almost  dry.  Then  sprinkle  it  with  dry 
l^laster  of  paris  and  shake  it  out  before 
it  has  time  to  set.  Eepeat  this  powder- 
ing and  shaking  until  it  is  perfectly 
dry,  and  the  feathers  will  look  bright 
and  nice.      Try  it. 

PRESERVATION  OF  BUGS,  ETC. 

Take  a  large  moth  fly  or  miller  full 
of  eggs.  Make  an  incision  on  the  under 
side  of  body  and  take  out  all  the  eggs 
and  entrails.  Now  put  in  some  of  the 
preserving  fluid  and  fill  the  cavity  with 
62 


cotton  and  sew  it  ap.  Then  run  a  pin 
down  through  the  body  and  pin  it  to  a 
board.  Arrange  its  feet,  moisten  its 
body  with  the  preserving  fluid  and  the 
job  is  complete.  Butterflies  and  small 
bugs  need  only  the  preparation  over 
the  body.  Heavy  bugs  can  be  placed 
in  a  cup  and  the  preparation  poured 
over  them.  Let  them  lie  in  it  a  few 
hours  and  pin  on  board  as  directed  in 
moth  flies.  When  dry  place  in  a  glass 
case. 


ARTICLE   II. 

OF  SKENNISG  ANIMALS. 

As  soon  as  an  anmal  is  killed,  take 
cotton  and  stuff  in  the  wounds,  nostrils 
and  mouth,  as  directed  in  Article  I.  for 
birds;  then  let  it  cool  before  commenc- 
ing to  skin.  In  skinning  a  specimen 
be  very  careful  about  cutting  holes  in 
the  skin,  and  also  not  to  stretch  it  by 
63 


pullino:  on  it  while  skinning.  All  being 
ready,  lay  the  specimen  on  its  back, 
make  an  incision  from  the  breast-bone 
back  to  the  center  between  the  hind 
legs,  being  careful  not  to  cut  too  deep 
over  the  abdomen.  Divide  the  skin 
right  and  left,  putting  cotton  or  paper 
on  the  body  as  the  skin  is  removed,  cr 
sprinkle  Avith  corn  meal,  as  directed  for 
birds  in  Article  I,  to  prevent  the  fatty 
matter  from  soiling  the  hair.  When 
you  come  to  the  hind  legs,  pull  the  skin 
down  over  the  thigh  joint,  and  unjoint 
it,  cut  the  leg  off  and  skin  down  to  the 
knee  joint  and  unjoint  there,  taking  out 
all  the  flesh  down  to  the  foot,  then 
treat  the  other  hind  leg  the  same  way. 
Now  skin  down  over  the  rump  and 
bp.ck  to  the  tail.  The  tail  is  hard  to 
skin.  Take  a  forked  stick,  and  after 
pressing  the  skin  as  far  down  on  the 
tail-bone  as  possible,  holding  the  bone 
as  tight  in  the  fork  as  you  can,  pull 
downward  and  the  bone  will  slip  out. 


If  the  animal  is  not  too  large  it  should 
be  swung  up  with  a  rope  or  cord  tied 
around  the  body  just  in  front  of  the 
hind  legs,  or  by  attaching  a  hook  to  the 
rope  which  fastens  into  the  flesh.  Ee- 
move  the  skin  down  to  the  forelegs, 
and  un joint  them  at  the  body,  and  skin 
out  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for 
the  hind  legs,  un  jointing  at  the  knees. 
Now  skin  the  neck  and  head,  and  when 
you  come  to  the  ears  cut  them  close  to 
the  skull;  fine  specimens  are  often 
spoiled  by  cutting  them  too  far  out 
from  the  skull.  We  next  <;ome  to  the 
eyes.  Be  careful  not  to  cut  the  eyelids. 
It  is  better  to  cut  close  to  the  skull  and 
trim  afterwards  than  to  risk  spoiling 
them.  Remove  the  skin.  Un  joint  the 
neck  close  to  the  skull,  enlarge  the 
opening  at  the  base  of  brain  and  remove 
all  the  brains.  Take  out  the  eyes  and 
tongue  and  remove  all  flesh  from  the 
skull. 

This   completes  the  skinning,  except 
65 


when  the  animal  has  horns.  In  that 
case,  proceed  as  above  until  you  come 
to  the  neck.  Skin  as  far  forward  as 
you  can  and  unjoint  the  neck  at  skull. 
Then  cut  across  from  one  horn  to 
the  other  and  loosen  the  skin  around 
the  horns.  Then  make  another  cut 
from  between  the  horns  backwards 
along  the  neck  far  enough  to  make  the 
opening  large  enough  to  take  the  skull 
out;  skin  out  the  skull  and  the  skinning 
is  completed.  The  flesh  must  now  be 
cleaned  from  the  skull  by  boiling  until 
tender,  then  scraping  it,  or  simply  by 
cutting  and  scraping  it. 

Take  out  the  Ijrains,  eyes,  etc.,  we 
are  now  ready  to  anoint  the  whole 
inside  of  skin,  skull,  etc.,  Avith  the 
preserving  powder  Put  in  the  frame 
and  stuff  the  body  if  ready;  if  not,  the 
ears,  nose,  feet  and  lips  must  be  w^ell 
wet  with  the  preserving  fluid  and  laid 
away  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 


66 


STUFFING  AND  MOUNTING  ANIMALS. 

yrX..^  After  the  skin  is    pre- 

^,  ^^\  Jl  pared,  we  Avill  begin  by 
^''preparing  the  skull. 
After  cleaning  as  direc- 
ted anoint  it  with  the 
preserving  powder,  then 
put  in  suitable  eyes,  as 
directed  in  birds.  Now 
if  the  leg  bones  are 
large  enough  to  take  in 


the 


leg 


wires. 


drill 


holes  through  the  ends  large  enough  to 
receive  said  wires.  Next  divide  the 
skin  of  ears  out  to  the  points  and  place 
a  piece  of  tin  in  them  the  shape  of  ear. 
Now  turn  the  skin  of  head  inside  out 
and  sew  up  the  mouth,  draw  the  under 
lip  up  under  the  upper  lip  and  sew  it 
there  so  as  when  turned  back  the 
stitches  will  not  show.  Next  stretch 
the  hide  on  the  bench  and  measure  it. 
In  order  to  make  the  wire  frame  as 
shown  and  described  in  wire  frames, 
67 


Nos.  4  and  0,  make  the  frame  of  suit-* 
al)le  malleable  wire,  and  place  it  in  as 
shown,  except  the  neck  wire  should  be 
passed  out  at  nostril.  First  put  the 
skull  in  place  and  pass  the  neck  wire 
through  the  nose.  Then  pass  the  leg 
wires  out  through  the  leg  bones,  or  on 
the  inside  of  skin  where  the  bone  is 
not  large  enough  to  receive  it.  Now 
cut  the  tail  wire  long  enough  to  reach 
to  end  of  tail  and  put  it  in  place. 

Now,  if  the  skin  has  not  been  pre- 
viously prepared  with  some  of  the  i)re- 
serving  preparations,  powder  the  whole 
inside  with  the  arsenic  and  alum. 
However,  the  head  and  legs  have  to  be 
prepared  before  putting  in  the  frame. 
We  are  now  ready  for  the  filling. 
Stuff  cotton  in  around  the  leg  wires  to 
make  the  legs  proper  shape,  being  care- 
ful not  to  get  it  in  too  tight.  Take 
some  sand  and  mix  some  arsenic  with 
it;  till  the  tail  with  this,  placing  some 
cotton  at  base  of  tail  to  hold  the  sand 
6S 


in.  Now  stutf  the  neck  iiud  l)0(ly  with 
any  suitable  material,  shaping  and  sew- 
ing up  as  you  proceed.  Examine  the 
head,  and  where  it  needs  filling  out 
pass  the  cotton  in  through  nose  and 
ears,  and  shape  it  as  in  life,  arranging 
the  ears,  nose  and  mouth.  Now  pose 
the  specimen  as  you  wish  it  to  re- 
main, and  place  it  in  a  cool,  dry  place 
to  dry.  The  leg  wires  should  l)e  bent 
so  as  to  allow  the  foot  to  rest  on  board, 
and  when  dry  the  wires  should  be  cut 
off  at  bottom  of  feet,  and  the  project- 
ing: neck  wire  at  end  of  nose  should 
also  be  cut  off.  Anoint  the  feet,  nose 
and  ears  with  the  preserving  fluid  once 
a  day  for  a  few  days.  The  wood  and 
wire  frame  is  used  in  heavy  animals, 
the  wood  simply  taking  the  place  of  the 
wire  along  the  back.  By  examining 
the  cuts  it  is  easy  to  see  how  they  are 
to  be  used. 

AYishing    to   stand  animals,   such  as 
squirrels,     groundhogs,    etc.,     on    the 
69 


hind  legs,  they  have  to  remain  on  a 
block  or  perch;  so  procure  a  suita))le 
block  or  perch,  and  varnish  it  before 
putting  the  specimen  on.  Animals  and 
birds  can  l)e  stuffed  with  hay,  or  any- 
thing that  you  can  get  into  them  in 
good  shape.  I  often  mow  fine  blue- 
grass  and  dry  it  carefully,  and  find  it 
makes  splendid  stuffing,  especially  for 
the  bodies  of  animals  and  large  birds. 
Excelsior  also  makes  a  good  filling. 

ON  MOUNTING  DEER  HEADS. 

In  mounting  a  deer's  head  to  look 
life-like  (having  horns  on),  proceed  to 
skin,  anoint  with  the  [)reserving  pow- 
der, build  up  the  nose  with  plaster 
of  paris,  put  in  the  e^^es,  sew  up  the 
mouth  and  neck,  for  which  see  direc- 
tions in  another  article.  Now  take  a 
2x4-inch  piece  of  pine  for  a  neck  sup- 
port. Fit  the  end  of  it  in  the  brain 
pit  with  plaster  of  paris.  When  the 
plaster  has  hardened  sew  up  the  mouth 
70 


as  directed  in  cat.  Draw  the  skin  up 
over  the  skull  and  sew  the  skin  to- 
gether, drawing  it  close  around  the 
horns.  The-skin  being  opened  on  l)ack 
of  neck,  sew  it  up  to  within  six  inches 
of  back  end.  Now  make  a  board  to  tit 
in  back  end  of  neck  skin,  and  fasten  it 
to  the  neck  support  in  such  a  way  as  to 
hold  the  head  on  wall  as  desired.  Tack 
the  skin  around  the  ])oard,  being  care- 
ful not  to  draw  the  hair  down.  Stuil' 
the  neck  and  finish  sewing  up.  Cut  the 
skin  off  at  back  of  board.  Arrange 
the  whole  head  as  directed  in  the  cat 
and  set  away  to  dry.  See  that  the  ears 
and  eyes  are  all  right,  and  use  plenty 
of  the  preserving  fluid.  When  the 
head  is  completed  make  a  suitable  shield 
to  place  on  back  end  of  the  neck;  this 
should  be  of  a  neat  pattern  and  nicely 
polished.  Fasten  this  on  to  neck  board 
with  screws,  then  on  the  wall,  also  Avith 
screws,  which  should  be  passed  through 
the  shield,  under  edge  of  hair,  to  con- 
ceal the  heads  of  screws. 
71 


ARTICLE   III. 

A    SIMPLE    METHOD   OF    SKINNING,    STUF- 
FING   AND    PRESERVING    FISH. 


FISH  DRESSING. 


J^oX 


D 

n 

l' 

_>?    ._ 

v" 

rvsL 

L^ram 

B^^^^ 

^^ 

^^^^ 

Take  a  scale  fish,  say  one  that  weiofhs 
two  pounds,  more  or  less,  and  if  a  fish 
on  which  the  scales  are  tight,  you  can 
skin  and  dress  it  without  losing  any  of 
the  scales;  but  if  a  loose  scaled  fish,  it 
will  be  better  to  protect  them  as  fol- 
lows: Take  some  tissue  paper  and  press 
it  gently  on  one  side  of  the  fish,  then 
72 


turn  it  over  and  treat  the  other  side  in 
the  same  manner.  The  natural  glutin- 
ous matter  which  covers  the  scales  Avill 
be  sufficient  to  make  it  adhere  firmly. 
Without  this  precaution  the  skin  could 
not  be  removed  from  some  fish  without 
losing  the  scales,  which  would  ruin  the 
specimen.  When  these  papers  dry,  lay 
the  fish  on  its  back,  take  a  pair  of  scis- 
sors and  open  the  skin  down  the  center 
of  the  belly,  beginning  close  up  the 
gills  and  running  clear  back  to  the  end 
of  the  body. 

The  skin  should  now  be  taken  off 
with  great  care,  using  a  smooth-edged 
knife  for  skinning,  and  a  pair  of  scis- 
sors to  clip  the  fins  and  other  fine 
bones  Avith.  After  the  body  has  been 
skinned,  take  out  the  gills,  tongue  and 
eyes. 

It  is  now  ready  for  the  preserving 
powder,    which    should    be    spread   or 
dusted  over  the  inside  of  the  skin,  be- 
ing careful  to  reach  all   parts  around 
T3 


the  gills,  in  the  mouth,  eye  sockets, 
etc.  We  now  insert  the  frame  E  (see 
cut  No.  1 ),  which  is  simply  a  wire  bent 
as  shown  in  the  cut,  and  sew  up,  begin- 
ning at  the  tail  and  ending  at  the  gills, 
leaving  the  ends  EE  of  frame  project- 
ing, as  represented  in  cut  No.  1.  We 
now  proceed  to  fill  the  body  Avith  plas- 
ter paris.  Mix  up  a  sufiicient  quantity, 
take  a  funnel,  open  the  gills  or  mouth 
and  insert  the  tube  of  the  funnel  therein, 
and  pour  in  enough  plaster  paris  to  fill 
the  body.  Handle  the  body  carefully, 
and  shape  it  properly,  while  the  plaster 
is  setting,  being  careful  to  keep  the 
frame  EE  straight  Avith  the  body. 
When  the  plaster  has  set  ( or  hardened), 
bore  tAvo  holes  in  a  rough  board  to  set 
the  frame  rods  EE  in,  which  Avill  hold 
the  body  up  off  the  board.  (See  cut.) 
XoAv  proceed  to  stuff  the  head  Avith  cot- 
ton, being  careful  not  to  press  the  gills 
out  of  shape,  then  draAv  the  mouth  to- 
gether Avith  a  thread  and  tie  it.  Fill 
74 


the  eye  socket  with  plaster  paris  or 
putty,  and  set  the  eye  in  the  proi)er 
position. 

We  are  now  ready  for  the  fins  and  tail; 
if  they  have  become  dry,  wet  them 
with  water  and  spread  them  out;  then 
take  a  needle  and  thread  and  draw  them 
up,  as  shown  in  cut  No.  1. 

To  make  the  frame,  take  a  rough 
board,  say  one  inch  longer  than  the 
fish  you  intend  to  dress.  For  a  fish  a 
foot  long,  the  board  should  ])e  one  inch 
thick  and  about  three  inches  wide,  and 
for  larger  fish  in  the  same  proportion, 
or  large  enough  to  support  the  fish 
To  one  end  of  the  l)oard  nail  a  piece 
of  lath  a  foot  long  (  see  D  in  cut);  on 
the  other  end  nail  a  block  (  C  in  cut ), 
to  which  nail  an  upright  piece  (  B  in 
cut ).  Tack  the  tail  to  the  upright  (B) 
with  tacks  (P)-  Raise  the  upper  fins 
by  drawing  a  thread  through  them  and 
tying  to  upright  piece,  as  shown  in  cut. 
Drive  two  nails  in  board  (A),  as  shown 
75 


(GH),  to  wliich  fasten  threads  attached 
to  lower  liiis  as  shown  in  cut.  Set 
away  to  dry  and  when  thorou<j:hly  dry- 
wash  the  whole  ))ody,  take  otf  the  tissue 
paper.  When  the  fish  gets  dry,  dampen 
all  the  outer  surface  with  corrosive  sul)- 
liniate  and  set  away.  Take  off  the 
threads  and  place  it  on  a  nice,  smooth 
board  and  give  a  light  coat  of  varnish. 
The  specimen  is  then  ready  for  the 
cabinet. 

Should  you  j)refer  to  stuff  the  body 
with  cotton  instead  of  using  plaster 
paris,  proceed  as  follows:  After  skin- 
ning as  directed,  make  a  frame,  EE, 
and  take  a  straight  piece  of  wire  long- 
enough  to  reach  from  the  point  of  the 
nose  to  the  other  end  of  the  body, 
fasten  this  to  the  frame,  EE,  at  the 
upper  end,  by  wrapping  them  together 
with  a  small  wire  or  cord,  leaving  the 
frame  EE  as  near  the  center  as  pos- 
sible. Take  cotton  or  tow  and  wrap 
the  wire  that  is  to  run  lengthwise  of 
7G 


the  oody,  say  one-fourth  as  lug  as  the 
l)ody,  then  insert  it  in  the  skin  and 
proceed  to  stuff  with  cotton,  being  very 
careful  to  get  the  natural  shape.  When 
this  is  completed,  proceed  to  sew  up 
and  mount  as  directed  when  dressed 
with  plaster  paris.  The  Gar  fish  makes 
a  fine  specimen,  by  simply  filling  the 
skin  with  dry  sand  while  drying,  and 
let  it  out  when  dry. 


ARTICLE   IV. 


HUNTING  SPECIMENS  AND  CARE  OF  SAME. 

In  hunting  specimens,  birds  or  ani- 
mals, it  is  best  to  take  a  double-barreled 
shot-gun,  have  your  cartridges  loaded 
some  with  fine  shot,  and  some  with 
coarse;  keep  one  barrel  loaded  with  one 
number  and  the  other  barrel  wuth  the 
other  number,  then  yon  are  ready  for 
either  small  or  large  game.  Have  some 
cotton  and  old  news})aper  with  you, 
77 


and  as  soon  as  you  kill  a  s})eL'imen,  sto}) 
up  the  shot  holes  with  the  cotton,  and 
it  is  sometimes  best  to  stuff  some  in  the 
nostrils  and  mouth.  If  any  blood  has 
run  out  on  the  hair,  or  feathers,  as  the 
case  ma\'  l)e,  wipe  it  off  carefull\',  then 
wrap  the  body  in  paper  and  pack  it  in 
the  game  sack,  using  all  care  not  to 
bend,  break  or  soil  the  feathers,  for  if 
once  soiled  it  is  hard  to  make  the  work 
look  well  again. 

On  removing  the  birds  from  the 
game  sack,  if  there  is  any  blood  on  the 
feathers,  wash  it  out  Avith  clear  water, 
and  wipe  until  nearly  dry;  then  sprin- 
kle with  plaster  of  paris  and  shake  until 
dry.  In  this  way  the  feathers  will 
look  smooth  and  natural ;  but  if,  after 
washing,  you  let  them  dry  without 
stirring,  they  will  present  a  bad  appear- 
ance. AVhere  the  Ijlood  has  remained 
on  the  feathers  they  must  be  well 
washed  and  treated  as  directed  in  a  test 
case  as  given  at  close  of  Article  I. 
78 


ARTICLE  V. 
WOOD  AND  WIRE  FRAMES. 


The  above  cuts  represent  my  wood 
and  wire  frames  for  animals  and  birds. 

Fig.  Y  is  Fig.  8  reversed;  Fig.  8, 
showing  the  way  the  neck  and  tail  sup- 
ports EE  are  fastened  to  the  body  board 
with  blind  staples.  Fig.  7  shows  the 
way  the  leg  wires  AA  are  fastened  in 
the  same  manner.  In  making  the 
frame,  measure  the  animal  from  shoul- 
der to  hip,  and  cut  the  board  a  little 
longer  than  the  measure  taken;  round 
70 


the  corners  as  shown  in  cuts,  and  round 
the  upper  edges  to  keep  them  from  cut- 
ting the  skin  shouhl  it  come  in  contact 
with  it.  Now  take  a  wire  or  rod  long 
enough  to  reach  from  the  end  of  the  tail 
to  the  end  of  the  nose,  bend  the  wire 
as  shown  in  Fig.  8,  and  fasten  it  to  the 
body  board  with  blind  staples,  unless 
the  specimen  l)e  a  large  one,  then  it 
will  he  necessary  to  put  them  on  with 
strong  wire  staples.  Next  bend  the 
wires  for  legs  as  shown  in  Fig.  12, 
which  should  not  be  fastened  to  the 
board  until  after  being  placed  in  the 
legs  of  the  animal  being  dressed.  They 
are  then  bent  up  as  shown  in  Fig.  13 
and  fastened  to  the  body  board  with 
staples  to  suit. 

The  frame  for  birds  is  made  in  the 
same  way,  excepting  the  forelegs,  which 
is  used  on  bird  frames  only  when  want- 
ing to  spread  the  wings.  Fig.  11  is  a 
single  wire  frame,  to  be  l)ent  in  the 
manner  shown,  and  to  be  used  in  dress- 
ing small  birds.  ( See  small  bird  page  5  j. 
80 


ARTICLE   VI. 

FOR  BIRDS  AND   ANIMALS. 
WIRE  FRAMES. 


fjg.Z    "    "  Rs.!"  "     Fig.4     "  ^  Fig.  5  9 

The  above  frames  are  made  as 
follows:  Take  a  straight  wire  and  turn 
a  loop  in  the  center  as  shown  at  B, 
1.  Take  another  wire  about  the 
and  bend  it  as  shown 
in  Fig.  2.  Now  run  Fig.  2  wire  through 
the  loop  B  in  Fig.  1  down  to  bend  E, 
fasten  them  in  a  vice  at  the  loop  B  in 
Fig.  1,  and  plait  the  three  together  as 
To  form  the  Fig.  4 
81 


iV6*> 


Fig. 


same    length 


shown  in  Fig.  3 


frame,  make  another  U)o\)  t\V(j  or  three 
inches  or  further  \\\)  the  neck  wire  E, 
bend  another  wire  as  Fig.  2,  i)ut  this 
through  the  loop,  and  plait  together  as 
in  Fi<r.  3.  This  forms  the  frame  for 
animals,  as  shown  in  Fig.  4. 

For  Figs.  0  and  0,  lay  three  wires 
together  as  shown  in  Fig.  5,  put  them 
in  a  vise  and  twist  or  plait  together  as 
shown  in  Fig.  6.  This  forms  three 
wire  frames — Figs.  3,  4  and  6. 

The  advantage  Fig.  4  frame  has  over 
Fig.  6,  is  that  it  is  easier  bent  in  the 
center,  there  only  being  one  wire. 


ARTICLE  VII. 


MOLES. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  give  more  than 
one  w^ay  to  dress  a  mole.  An  expert 
can  skin,  stutf  and  sew  up  a  mole  in 
ten  minutes  in  the  following  manner: 

After  killing  a  mole,  let  it  cool ;  then 
82 


make  an  incision  alono^  the  abdomen, 
commencino'  at  the  tail  and  runnin«: 
forward  two  inches,  or  about  to  the 
center  of  the  body.  Skin  out  the  hind 
legs,  bone  and  flesh,  down  to  the  foot 
and  un joint.  Press  the  skin  back  to 
the  tail  and  unjoint  it  close  to  the 
body.  Pull  the  skin  off  the  body, 
taking  care  of  front  feet,  not  to  pull 
them  loose  from  the  skin;  unjoint  them, 
or  break  the  arm  bone  close  to  the  foot ; 
skin  on  down  to  mouth  and  cut  the  body 
loose,  leaving  only  the  jaw  bones  in  the 
skin.  Spread  on  the  whole  skin  all  the 
preserving  powder  that  will  stick  to  it, 
and  turn  the  skin  back  inside  out. 
Turn  the  hind  legs  and  proceed  to  fill 
the  body  with  cotton,  using  a  wire  to 
stuff  the  cotton  in  with,  as  in  all  other 
animals,  being  careful  not  to  stretch 
the  skin,  and  also  not  to  get  the  cotton 
knotted  up.  After  the  body  is  filled 
sew  it  up  and  place  on  a  board  to  dry. 
Place  the  feet  in  position,  and  wet 
83 


thciii    and   the  tail  and  nose  with    the 
solution  of  corrosive  sul)liniate. 

Other  small  animals,  such  as  rats, 
mice,  ground  squirrels,  gophers,  etc. , 
can  be  dressed  in  the  same  manner. 
After  stuffing  smooth  the  hair  and 
shape  the  body  before  laying  away. 


ARTICLE  VIII. 


MODE    OF    DRESSrVG    AND    FRESERVINU 
TURTLES. 

A  good  sized  turtle  may  be  thor- 
oughly preserved  without  the  tedious 
process  of  luijointing,  skinning,  dig- 
ging out  the  flesh,  sewing  up,  etc.,  l)y 
observing  the  following  directions: 

Take  a  snapping,  or  any  other  hard 
shell  turtle,  say  one  that  measures  ten 
inches  across  the  back,  or  smaller, 
down  to  the  smallest. 

The  first  thing  to  be  done  is  to  kill 
it,  which  is  the  hardest  part  of  the  op- 
84 


eration,  as  it  clinirs  to  life  tenaciously, 
and  large  ones  are  very  strong  and  hard 
to  manage.  One  Avay  is  to  get  it  to 
open  its  mouth,  and  catch  it  by  the  un- 
der jaw  with  a  pair  of  strong  pliers, 
hold  its  mouth  open  and  make  it  swal- 
low a  quantity  of  the  solution  of  corro- 
sive sublimate ;  this  being  a  deadly 
poison,  it  will  soon  kill  it. 

Another  way  is  to  hold  its  head  as 
far  out  as  you  can  pull  it,  and  stick  it 
as  close  to  the  under  shell  as  you  can, 
running  the  blade  well  back  into  the 
body.  It  takes  some  time  for  it  to 
die  after  being  stuck. 

And  still  another  way  is  to  open  its 
mouth  and  stick  a  knife  blade  up 
throuofh  the  roof  of  the  mouth  into  the 
brain. 

I  prefer  the  poisoning,  as  it  seems 
to  die  easier  and  quicker,  and  it  does 
not  disfigure  it.  As  soon  as  it  dies,  lay 
it  on  its  back,  and  make  an  opening  in 
the  skin,  under  one  of  the  back  legs, 
85 


Isirgo  (^rioiiii^li  1,0  tiiUo  out  nil  t.lio  c.n- 
Irfiils;  now  Uiki^  m  pnir  of  [)liors  or  51 
liook  (iiukIc-  I'of  llic  purpose);  pull  out, 
ill  I  tli(5  (Miti'ailH,  livc.r,  liwirt,  ^)U^.  If 
tli(5  Hpociriicn  is  n  large  one,  pour  in 
son)(^  vv.'i.tor  and  rinso  out  thorouf^hly, 
tJicn  put  in  ,'i,  lot  of  the.  preserving 
po\V(l('-r,  being  (-Mrful  to  g(5t  it  well  dis- 
tributed tlirouirh  tli(^  body.  TlK^n  tak(5 
some  cotton  nnd  <lust,  it  well  with  the 
|)reserving  ])()vvder,  aiid  lill  up  the,  in- 
side, j)ressing  the  eotton  in  tight,  filling 
the  body  full  and  sew  up.  Now  open 
the  mouth  :ind  pour  some  of  the  solu- 
tion of  e<uM-osiv(5  sublimaU^  <lown 
its  thi'o.'it,  and  ])ress  sonn?  eott.on 
sprinkle(|  with  the  powd<M-  down  its 
thi-oat,  being  eareful  not  to  stretch  the 
neek  out  of  i)roportion.  Remove  the 
eyes  and  insert  the  a,rtifi(;ial  eyes  in 
tlK'ir  stead;  lill  the  mouth  with  eotton 
and  elos(^  it,,  ('ut  a  hole-  in  the  botiom 
of  each  foot,  and  probe  th(^  h^gs  with  a 
knifes  oi-  the  blunt  <'nd  of  a,  winv,  j)oui- 
86 


in  some  of  the  solution  of  corrosive 
sublimate,  or  work  in  enough  of  tiie 
powder  to  preserve  the  flesh;  if  the  tail 
is  a  large  one,  it  should  ho  treated  in 
the  same  way,  and  all  sewed  up.  Now 
set  it  on  a  })oard  and  tack  the  feet  to 
the  hoard  in  as  near  the  way  it  would 
hold  theui  while  walking  as  you  can. 
Pull  the  neck  out  a  very  little,  and  put 
a  little  block  or  a  small  roll  of  cotton 
under  it  to  hold  it  up  in  j)osition  while 
drying.  Before  })utting  it  on  the  dry- 
ing board,  take  a  small  j)aint  l)rusli, 
l)our  out  some  of  the  solution  of  corro- 
sive sublimate  in  a  dish  and  give  the 
whole  outer  surface  a  thorough  wet- 
ting. This  should  be  repeated  once  a 
day  for  several  days.  This  com})letes 
the  dressing.  After  the  si)ecimen  is 
dry,  take  it  off  the  board  and  set  in  the 
cabinet. 

Another  way:     After  killing,  as  di- 
rected, lay  the  specimen  on  its  back  and 
unjoint  the  breast  shell  from  back  shell 
87 


with  a  chisel  or  heavy  knife  blade; 
open  the  skin  from  the  front  part  of 
the  foreleg  back  and  around  to  front 
of  the  other  foreleg,  cutting  under  the 
legs.  Skin  out  all  the  flesh  and  bones 
of  the  legs  and  un joint  them  at  the  foot, 
skin  out  the  tail,  then  unjoint  the  neck 
bone  from  backbone,  and  skin  it  out 
and  unjoint  at  the  back  of  the  skull. 
Take  the  flesh  from  Ijack  and  breast 
shells,  then  anoint  all  parts  with  the 
l)reserving  powder.  Take  a  frame  as 
Fig.  8,  in  article  V,  of  the  wire  and 
wood  frame,  and  put  in  legs,  neck  and 
tail,  as  directed  in  animals,  letting  the 
neck  wire  pass  out  through  the  mouth 
or  nostril.  Stuff  the  legs,  neck  and 
tail  with  cotton  or  tow,  and  se^v  up  the 
sides,  leaving  an  opening  to  stuff  the 
body;  fill  the  body,  then  finish  sewing 
up.  In  stuffing  the  legs,  neck  and  tail 
be  careful  to  keep  the  wires  in  the  cen- 
ter of  each.  Open  the  mouth  and  take 
out  the  eyes  from  inside  and  put  in  the 
88 


glass  eyes;  put  some  cotton  ])ack  of 
them  to  hold  them  in  place  while  dry- 
ing. Close  the  mouth,  and  wet  the 
Avhole  body  with  the  solution  of  cor- 
rosive sublimate.  This  should  be  done 
once  a  day  for  several  days.  Place  the 
specimen  on  a  board  to  dry.  For  po- 
sition, copy  after  nature  as  near  as  pos- 
sible. After  the  skin  is  dry  a  coat  of 
varnish  adds  much  to  its  appearance. 


ARTICLE  IX. 


KILLING  AND  DRESSING  SNAKES. 

To  kill  a  snake  without  ])ruising  or 
breaking  the  skin  is  a  difficult  under- 
taking, for,  as  a  general  thing,  we  are 
not  looking  for  snakes,  therefore  we 
are  not  prepared  to  capture  one. 

When  Ave  do    run  across  them,    we 

generally  kill  them  with  the  first  thing 

we  get  hold^of.      If    the  snake  is  not 

too  large,     strike    it  across  the    back 

89 


with  a  small  stick.  This  disables  him, 
and  }'ou  now  have  time  to  prepare  to 
finish  him.  Watch  your  chance  and 
when  the  opportunity  presents  itself, 
tap  it  on  the  head  a  few  times,  and  you 
can  soon  kill  it  without  ])ruisinii\ 
AVhen  it  is  dead,  open  its  mouth  and 
cut  the  tongue  and  fangs  out,  then  un- 
joint  the  backbone  from  the  skull  and 
skin  back  on  the  body  an  inch  or  two, 
turning  the  skin  inside  out.  Tie  a  cord 
to  the  skinned  part  of  the  body  and 
l)uli  on  this  with  your  right  hand, 
while  with  your  left  hand  you  i)ull  the 
skin  oil'  from  the  body,  Avhich  is  easily 
done  if  the  snake  is  not  too  large  in  the 
center  of  the  l)ody;  in  that  case  it  must 
})e  opened  in  the  largest  part  of  the 
body.  Make  the  opening  on  under 
side  of  body,  lengthwise  of  the  snake, 
and  long  enough  to  allow  you  to  re- 
move the  skin  all  around  the  body, 
then  cut  the  body  in  two.  Skin  out 
both  ends,  unjointing  the  l)ody  close  to 
90 


the  skull,  turn  the  skin  right  side  out 
and  sew  up  the  opening,  taking  short 
stitches.  Xow  mix  some  plaster  paris 
and  water,  leaving  it  thin  enough  to 
run;  place  a  funnel  in  the  mouth  and 
pour  the  plaster  in  until  the  body  is 
full.  Lay  the  snake  on  a  level  board 
and  coil  it  before  the  plaster  gets  dry, 
placing  the  head  in  the  position  in 
which  you  want  it  to  remain.  Take 
out  the  eyes  and  put  in  the  glass  ones; 
then  wet  the  whole  skin  Avith  the  solu- 
tion of  corrosive  sublimate.  This 
should  be  repeated  once  a  day  for  three 
or  four  days. 

Another  method  is  to  skin  and  sew 
up  as  directed,  then  take  a  long  Avire 
and  stuff  the  body  with  cotton  or  tow, 
being  careful  to  get  the  stuffing  in 
smooth,  so  that  no  lumps  will  show  on 
the  outside. 

Another  way  is  to  fill  the  ])ody  with 
sand,  and  when  the  skin  has  thor- 
oughly dried,  make  a  hole  in  the  under 
91 


part  of  the  body  and  let  the  sand  run  out. 

In  either  of  the  aljove  modes  the 
snake  should  be  coiled  as  soon  as 
stuffed  in  the  shape  you  want  it  to  re- 
main, and  plenty  of  the  solution  of  cor- 
rosive sublimate  used  over  the  skin. 

Eels,  frogs  and  toads  are  skinned 
and  stuffed  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
snake,  no  frames  being  used. 


ARTICLE  X. 

DRESSING   ALLIGATORS. 

Take  an  alligator,  say  five  feet  long, 
make  an  incision  the  full  length  of  the 
body,  on  the  under  side,  and  skin  oat 
all  the  flesh  and  bones,  as  recommended 
in  skinning  animals.  Scrape  off  all  the 
fat  or  flesh  that  may  be  left  on  the 
inside  of  the  skin,  and  give  it  a  thor- 
ough coat  of  the  preserving  powder. 
Now  proceed  to  stuff*  it  without  using 
any  frame.  First  stuff*  the  legs  with  cot- 
ton or  tow,  pressing  it  in  very  tight — 
92 


their  skin  ])eing  very  tough,  there  is  no 
danger  of  stretching  it.  Sew  the  neck 
ui),  down  to  the  front  legs,  and  stuff 
tight;  now  sew^  up  the  tail  to  hind  legs 
and  stuff  it;  then  take  a  piece  of  pine 
board,  say  an  inch  thick,  two  inches 
^ide,  and  twelve  inches  long,  place  this 
inside  of  the  skin,  draw  the  edges  to- 
gether over  it,  and  tack  both  edges 
close  together  on  the  board,  till  the 
body  up  to  the  end  of  this  board,  and 
put  in  another  board  in  the  same  way, 
and  again  stuff;  when  the  full  length  of 
the  opening  is  closed  up  in  this  way, 
before  putting  in  the  last  section,  have 
the  body  thoroughly  stuffed  and  i)ut 
the  section  in  afterward. 

The  advantage  in  putting  in  the  board 
is  this:  It  is  almost  impossible  to  sew 
the  skin,  and  as  it  is  to  lay  flat,  it  is 
much  easier  to  use  the  boards;  they 
could  also  be  used  in  the  neck  and  tail, 
if  you  w4sh  to  lay  them  straight  with 
the  body.  Lay  the  specimen  on  a  flat 
93 


board,  and  })lace  his  feet  and  tail  a.s 
you  wish  to  have  them.  The  eyes 
should  now  be  removed,  some  of  the 
solution  of  corrosive  sublimate  put  in 
the  sockets,  then  put  the  glass  eyes  in 
Avith  putty  or  plaster  paris.  Close 
the  mouth  and  set  a  Ijlock  under  the  jaw 
to  hold  it  up  while  drying.  Give  the 
body  a  thorough  wetting  with  spirits  of 
turpentine,  repeating  it  once  a  day  for 
three  or  four  days.  After  the  skin 
becomes  well  dried  give  it  one  or  two 
coats  of  varnish  and  you  have  a  fine 
specimen. 


ARTICLE  XL 


DESCRIPTION  OF  FOOT-STOOL. 

_f_^»  Letter     (A) 

J^^'f       ^      ^    ,-   J   represents     the 

(iS^:S^"  .^  '^-;jfci]"       covering,     (  B  ) 
e^i|i     ijf!  '  f  IP'       the  moss  o r  ha i r 

/  y  1 '  "^ '  ^^^^^^'  (^^  ^^^ 

^^^^  '     IL;     ^^^^  bolt  which  fas- 
94 


tens  the  horn  to  tlie  stool  hrjice,  (  D) 
the  tap  of  said  bolt,  (E)  the  wooden 
base  of  stool,  (F)  a  small  rod  or  nail  set 
in  the  plaster  paris,  (G)  a  rivet  throiiu:!] 
the  horn,  (H)  head  to  bolt,  (J)  plaster 
paris  in  the  horn. 

DIRECTIONS  FOR    MAKINCi    THE     STOOL 

Take  three  cow  horns  of  <i:ood  shape 
and  size;  rasp  them  and  sand-paper 
down,  as  hereafter  directed  in  Article 
XII;  then,  after  deciding  what  height 
you  want  the  legs,  make  a  frame  to 
saw  them  off  on,  as  illustrated  and 
directed  in  Article  XII,  cut  No.  0. 
After  sawing  off,  drill  a  hole  through 
in  the  horn  about  three-(|uarters  of  an 
inch  from  the  large  end.  This  hole 
should  l)e  large  enough  to  take  in  a  ten- 
[)enny  nail.  Put  the  nail  through  and 
tile  it  off  even  with  the  horn  on  both 
sides,  and  rivet  it  with  a  small  riveting 
hammer.  Now  level  u[)  the  ends  of 
the  horns  where  they  were  sawed  off, 
95 


by  taking  a  coarse  piece  of  sand-paper, 
and  laying  it  on  a  level  board,  rub  the 
ends  cf  the  horn  round  and  round  on  it 
until  it  is  perfectly  level.  Now  take 
the  Ijolt  C,  of  size  and  length  to  suit  the 
horn,  put  it  down  in  the  horn  to  see 
that  it  will  suit;  sometimes  it  has  to  be 
bent  in  the  shape  of  the  horn;  after 
fitting  it  to  the  horn,  leaving  about  1^ 
inches  projecting  out  to  go  through  the 
wooden  l)ase  E  and  leaving  room  for 
the  tap  D.  Now  mix  some  plaster  paris 
and  water  until  about  as  thick  as  it 
will  run;  pour  this  in  the  horn  until 
nearly  full,  ])ut  in  the  bolt,  as  shown, 
and  while  the  plaster  paris  is  yet  soft, 
take  an  eight-penny  wire  nail  and  push 
it  down  head  first  in  the  plaster  paris, 
leaving  about  half  an  inch  sticking  out; 
this  nail  and  the  bolt  should  both  come 
straight  up  from  the  level  of  the  end 
of  the  horn.  When  the  plaster  is  par- 
tially dry,  level  up  around  the  bolt  and 
nail  at  the  end.  The  horn  should  now 
96 


be  polished  as  directed  in  Article  XII. 
The  next  is  the  wooden  base  E;  have  a 
board  turned  or  cut  round,  say  twelve 
inches  across  and  one  inch  thick.  This 
should  be  made  of  walnut,  or  some 
other  hard  wood,  l)ut  when  the  hard 
wood  can  not  be  procured  pine  will  do. 
If  pine  is  used  it  should  be  painted,  or 
stained  and  varnished  on  the  under  side, 
and  if  walnut  it  should  be  sand-papered, 
filled  and  varnislied.  Now  strike  a 
circle  within  about  tAvo  inches  of  the 
outer  edge  and  bore  three  holes  at  equal 
distances  apart  and  set  in  the  bolts; 
when  you  get  them  in  the  position  you 
want  them,  press  down  on  them  to  get 
the  imprint  of  the  nails  F,  then  remove 
the  horns  and  bore  a  hole  the  size  of 
the  nails  F.  Now  put  the  bolts  in  again 
and  screAv  the  top  on  tight.  The  nail 
F  is  to  keep  the  horns  from  turning 
around  and  getting  out  of  place.  See 
that  the  butt  of  horn  fits  tight  to  the 
wooden  base  E. 

97 


UPHOLSTEKIXi    FOOT-STOOL. 

Go  to  ii  saddler  and  get  either  curied 
hair,  deer  hair,  or  moss  sufficient  for  a 
heavy  pad;  lay  it  on  the  floor  and  beat 
all  the  dirt  out  of  it,  then  pick  it  all 
apart  to  get  all  the  matted  lumps  out, 
lay  it  on  the  stool  toj)  and  pile  it  up 
about  a  foot  high  while  loose,  take  a 
piece  of  muslin  or  drilling,  lay  it  on 
top  of  the  moss  or  hair  and  draw  all 
the  four  corners  down  tight,  tacking 
them  about  the  center  of  the  edge  of 
the  wooden  Imse  E,  then  draw  it  nil 
down  and  tack  in  the  same  manner, 
drawing  very  tight,  being  careful  to 
get  it  round  and  even  and  leaving  no 
wrinkle.  In  case  the  moss  is  not  evenly 
distril)uted,  take  a  long  awl  and  run  it 
through  the  covering  and  carefully  dis- 
tribute it. 

Next  in  order  is  the  outside  cover- 
ing, which  should  be  a  fine  piece  of  silk 
plush  or  velvet.  Get  a  piece  large 
enough  to  work  some  fine  flower  or 
98 


motto  in  the  center,  then  put  it  on  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  first,  only  tack- 
ing it  down  near  the  lower  edge  of  the 
wooden  base  E;  by  being  careful  you 
can  get  it  on  without  wrinkling  it. 
The  tacks  should  be  small  and  very 
close  together.  Put  a  piece  of  braid 
around  the  edge  and  tack  it  on  with  up- 
holstering tacks  and  the  stool  is  com- 
pleted. 

SAWING  OFF  HORNS. 


99 


Cut  No.  <)  is  to  illustrate  a  frame  on 
which  to  cut  horns  to  be  used  for  foot- 
stool legs.  Without  a  frame  of  this 
kind  it  is  almost  impossible  to  cut  them 
to  set  level  with  stool  and  floor.  In 
fact,  it  is  more  diflicult  than  it  w^ould 
be  for  a  carpenter  to  cut  molding  to 
fit  corners,  etc. ,  w' ithout  a  mitre  box. 
It  is  very  simple  and  is  made  as  foUow^s: 
For  a  frame  large  enough  to  cut  four 
horns,  take  a  fencing  board  and  cut  off 
a  })iece  from  it  two  feet  long.  The 
l)oard  is  supposed  to  be  a))Out  six  inches 
wide  and  one  inch  thick.  Saw  off 
another  i)iece  the  same  length  and  nail 
it  to  the  edge,  as  shown  in  cut.  This 
we  will  call  the  back  of  frame  and  the 
other  the  bottom.  The  back  then  is 
five  inches  high,  measuring  from  bot- 
tom board  up.  This  completes  the 
frame  as  shown.  The  horns  are  now 
placed  on  the  frame  and  nails  driven 
around  them  into  the  frame  to  hold 
them  firmly  in  place.  Place  the  horns 
100 


close  together  in  setting  on  the  frame 
and  pour  plaster  paris  over  the  points 
of  all,  as  shown  in  cut  horn  A.  After 
the  plaster  paris  has  thoroughly  hard- 
ened, saw  off  another  piece  of  the  same 
board  and  nail  it  to  front  edge  of  bot- 
tom board,  and  proceed  to  saw  off  the 
horns  level  with  the  upper  edge  of  back 
and  front  boards,  as  in  horn  A.  Should 
you  want  the  legs  longer  or  shorter, 
take  wider  or  narrower  boards  for  back 
and  front  of  frame.  After  taking  the 
horns  from  the  frame,  proceed  to  put 
in  the  wire  through  the  butt  of  horn 
and  rivet  it;  then  put  in  the  bolt  and 
nail  F  (  as  directed  in  a  former  article  ) 
and  fill  the  horn  with  plaster  paris,  as 
shown  in  the  above  cut  (C).  The  horn 
is  now  ready,  after  polishing,  to  be 
placed  on  the  stool.  It  can  also  be 
placed  on  a  board  and  used  for  a  hat 
hook,  or  for  holding  back  window  cur- 
tains, etc. 

101 


ARTICLE    Xir. 

J)M{E(  TIONS  FOR  POLISHING  HORNS, 
HOOFS,  ETC. 

Go  to  a  hardware  store  and  buy  two 
good  wood  rasps,  flat  on  one  side  and 
round  on  the  other;  then  get  three 
grades  of  emery  or  sand-paper,  say  No. 
1,  No.  0,  No.  00;  then  go  to  a  drug  store 
and  buy  ten  cents'  worth  of  sweet  oil 
and  ten  cents'  worth  of  rotten  stone. 
Get  an  old  felt  hat  and  an  old  case 
knife  and  3'ou  are  ready  for  business. 

Take  of  either  horns  or  hoofs,  several 
at  a  time,  and  put  them  in  an  old  pot 
or  kettle  of  ])oiling  water,  let  it  boil 
until  they  become  soft,  which  usually 
takes  about  half  an  hour;  take  out  one 
at  a  time  and  rasp  it  until  it  begins  to 
cool  and  harden,  put  it  back  and  take 
oat  another,  and  keep  this  up  until  all 
are  rasped  down  to  the  shape  you  want 
them.  Now  take  one  at  a  time  in  the 
same    manner   and    scrape  them    until 

102 


tney  are  scraped  smooth  of  all  rasp 
marks,  using  the  case  knife  for  the 
scraper,  the  edge  of  which  has  Ijeen 
ground  square  off  like  that  of  a  shear 
blade.  Now  take  the  No.  1  sand-paper 
and  sand-paper  down,  then  use  the  No. 
0,  and  finally  finish  up  with  the  No.  00, 
rubbing  lengthwise  of  the  horn.  We 
are  now  ready  for  the  finishing  touch. 
Take  a  piece  of  felt  sufliciently  large  to 
rub  with,  pour  some  of  the  sweet  oil 
on  it,  then  dust  with  the  rotten  stone, 
and  o^ive  the  horn  a  thorouo-h  rubbino^, 
putting  more  of  the  rotten  stone  on  oc- 
casionally, and  keep  up  the  rubbing 
until  you  get  a  high  polish.  Such  a 
polish  will  remain  on  for  years. 

Another  way  to  polish  horns  :  Fasten 
them  firmly  on  a  bench  or  to  the  wall. 
Take  a  strip  of  ticking  or  felt  about 
three  inches  wide  and  three  feet  long. 
Wet  it  in  water  and  sprinkle  powdered 
emery  over  both  sides.  Take  hold  of 
both  ends,  place  it  around  the  horn  and 
103 


draw  backwards  and  forw^ards,  around 
and  around,  until  the  horn  presents  a 
smooth  surface;  then  take  another  strip 
of  the  same  descri})tion  and  use  in  the 
s:ime  manner,  except  usinof  rotten  stone 
instead  of  the  emery.  There  are  dif- 
ferent grades  of  the  emery,  and  only 
the  finest  is  to  be  used  in  polishing  ;  a 
coarser  grade  can  be  used  in  the  same 
manner  it.  the  place  of  sand-paper,  and 
is  A^erv  good. 

COLORINC;  HORNS. 

If  you  wish  to  give  a  horn  a  flesh 
color,  secure  a  very  light  colored  horn, 
ras})  and  scrape  it  down  very  thin,  and 
polish  so  that  the  horn  is  transparent. 
Get  some  red  paint  (with  plenty  of 
dryer  in  it)  give  the  inside  of  the  horn 
a  coat  of  the  paint,  and  set  it  away  to 
dry.  Before  applying  the  paint,  wash 
the  horn  out  well  wdth  soap  and  w^arm 
water  and  dry  w^ell.  The  above  gives 
a  beautiful  flesh  color,  which  will  last 
104 


for  years,   especially  when   tilled  Avith 
plaster  paris. 

TO  REMOVE  PLASTER  PARIS  FROM  A 

HORN  AND  TO  MAKE  THE  HORN 

ROUND. 

After  the  plaster  paris  has  become 
thoroughly  dry  it  is  very  hard;  there- 
fore to  cut  it  out  with  a  chisel  is  very 
tedious;  but  it  often  has  to  be  done. 
If  the  inside  of  the  horn  is  smooth 
and  a  little  tapering,  it  is  very  easy  to 
remove  by  boiling  it  until  the  horn  ex- 
pands or  becomes  soft ;  then  tap  the 
horn  with  a  smooth  stick  or  hammer, 
and  the  plaster  will  drop  out  in  a 
whole  piece.  If  you  have  put  a  rivet 
through  the  horn  before  putting  in  the 
plaster  paris  it  is  more  difficult  to  re- 
move, as  the  rivet  holds  the  plaster 
firmly  in  the  horn.  In  such  a  case  take 
a  chisel  and  dig  out  the  plaster  paris 
down  to  the  rivet,  then  either  cut  the 
rivet  with  the  chisel  or  file  it  in  two 
105 


and  take  it  ont;  then  proceed  as  above 
directed. 

To  make  the  butt  of  a  horn  round, 
|jiit  the  horn  in  boiling  water;  let  it  re- 
main ai)ont  ten  minutes;  have  a  round 
wooden  phig  ready,  which  should  ])e 
wedge  shaped;  drive  this  in  the  horn 
while  hot,  and  let  it  cool;  afterwards 
remove  the  plug,  and  the  horn  will  re- 
main round.  This  makes  ({uite  a  dif- 
ference in  the  appearance  of  the  horn 
where  you  wish  to  use  it  for  a  hat  rack, 
footstool,  etc. 

TO    DKESS    DEER    HOR>'S. 

Make  an  extra  strong  lye,  using  the 
granulated  lye  and  hot  water,  say  one 
tahlespoonful  of  lye  to  half  pint  of  hot 
water.  Give  the  whole  horn  a  thor- 
ough bath  in  the  mixture,  and  let  it  set 
about  one  hour;  then  take  a  stiff  brush 
and  give  the  horns  a  thorough  washing; 
this  cuts  off'  all  the  dirt  that  has  accum- 
ulated in  the  rough  knotty  parts.  The 
106 


horns  should  now  be  put  in  a  barrel  of 
water  and  let  soak  a  day  or  two,  to 
take  off  all  the  lye,  then  wash  well 
using  a  stiff  brush.  Now  take  an  old 
hand-saw  and  cut  down  through  the 
skull,  commencing  one  inch  back  of 
the  horns  and  coming  out  at  the  eye 
sockets,  being  careful  to  saw  straight 
through,  so  that  when  placed  on  a 
board  they  will  set  level.  Take  a  two- 
inch  pine  block  as  wide  as  the  skull  and 
three  inches  longer,  round  off'  the  top 
and  bottom  ends  to  suit  the  shape  of 
the  skull,  place  the  horns  on  the  block, 
holding  them  there  with  the  hands. 
Put  it  up  against  the  wall  and  if  the 
horns  pitch  too  far  forward  take  down 
and  cutoff  from  the  front  of  the  l)oard, 
sloping  it  backwards  until  the  horns 
hang  at  a  proper  pitch.  Noav  drill 
about  four  holes  through  the  skull,  and 
screw  the  skull  fast  to  the  board.  Take 
a  dozen  or  more  shingle  nails  and  drive 
in  the  front  of  board  an  inch  or  more 
107 


apart,  leaving  the  heads  sticking  out. 
These  are  to  hokl  the  plaster  paris, 
which  is  put  on  to  level  up  before  put- 
ting on  the  covering.  After  the  nails 
are  all  in,  mix  some  plaster  paris  and 
pour  over  the  skull  and  around  the 
edges  to  round  it  up  in  shape  for  the 
covering.  After  the  plaster  paris  is 
partially  hardened,  smooth  it  by  scrap- 
ing down  the  high  places,  then  let  it 
dry.  Take  a  piece  of  strong  unbleached 
muslin  large  enough  to  stretch  over  the 
skull  and  board,  tack  the  muslin  on  the 
back  part  of  the  skull  board,  then  draw 
it  down  between  the  horns  and  tack  it 
to  the  under  side  of  the  board  at  the 
lower  end,  drawing  very  tight;  now 
jommence  at  the  edge  of  the  mus- 
lin and  cut  straight  in  to  the  inner  side 
of  horns,  round  out  a  little  for  the  horn, 
and  proceed  to  draw  it  all  down  tight, 
and  tack  it  on  the  under  side  of  the 
block,  beinff  careful  not  to  make  any 
wrinkles  in  the  covering;  trim  it  off  to 
108 


the  tacks  on  the  under  side.  •  ( Some 
prefer  to  have  the  muslin  wet  while 
putting  it  on.)  We  are  now  ready  for 
the  outer  covering,  which  should  be 
plush  or  velvet,  and  is  put  on  in  the 
same  way  as  the  first  covering.  It  re- 
quires some  skill  to  make  a  smooth  jol) 
of  the  first;  yet  by  going  slow,  any  one 
should  do  a  fair  job.  Next  make  a 
board  to  screw  on  the  back  of  this, 
which  should  be  made  in  diamond  shape 
or  rounding  on  both  ends,  an  d  ^bout 
six  inches  longer  and  one  inch  wider 
than  the  skull  board;  this  should  be 
made  of  Avalnut  and  nicely  varnished; 
after  it  has  thoroughly  dried  fasten  it 
tight  to  skull  board  with  screws,  coun- 
ter-sinking their  heads.  Bore  one  hole 
at  each  end  of  the  base  board  and 
counter-sink  them;  then  screw  it  to  the 
wall.  Varnish  the  rough  part  of  the 
horns  and  let  them  dry;  then  take  some 
chenille  or  tinsel  cord  to  trim  around 
the  butt  of  the  horns  and  around  the 
109 


Imck  i)art  or  edge  of  the  skull  l^oard. 
Tack  it  on  with  ui)holstering  tacks. 
Cow  horns  and  sheep  horns  are  mounted 
in  the  same  manner.  The  sheep  horns 
should  l)e  cleaned  with  the  lye,  as  di- 
rected for  the  deer  horns,  but  no  scrap- 
ing or  polishing  is  necessary;  they  look 
i)etter  rough.  The  cow  horns  should 
l)e  polished,  as  directed  on  page  lU:^, 
l)efore  they  are  put  on  the  hoard.  No 
polished  horn  should  be  varnished. 


POLISHIXi   HOOFS  OF    YARIOLS   KL\J)S. 

The  cow  hoof  takes  a  high  })olish, 
and  a  number  of  useful  articles  can  be 
made  of  them— which  are  not  only 
useful,  but  quite  a  novelty.  Take  a 
})air  of  cow  hoofs,  which  are  neither 
bruised  nor  scaled,  rasp  them  down  in 
good  shape,  then  scrape,  sand-paper 
and  polish  the  same  as  directed  in  pol- 
ishing horns.  The  hoofs  should  be 
good  matches,  and  both  from  the  same 
110 


foot.  Bore  or  drill  two  holes  in  one 
of  them  on  the  inner  side,  about  one- 
half  inch  apart,  and  place  the  two 
hoofs  side  by  side  on  a  level  board, 
seeing  that  the  toes  are  even  with  each 
other.  Take  a  piece  of  wire  or  an  awl 
and  put  through  the  holes  in  the  hoof 
and  mark  the  place  to  make  the  holes 
on  the  other,  so  that  when  they  are 
wired  together  they  will  set  even  with 
each  other.  Drill  small  holes  around 
the  tops,  say  a  quarter  of  an  inch  apart; 
take  a  piece  of  malleable  wire  of  suf- 
ficient size  and  draw  it  through  the 
holes  in  the  sides  of  the  hoofs,  drawing 
them  firmly  together,  and  twist  the 
ends  of  the  wire  together;  this  Avill 
hold  them  in  place.  Bind  the  upper 
edge  of  hoofs  with  piece  of  cloth,  sew- 
ing through  the  holes  drilled  for  that 
purpose.  Stuff  each  hoof  with  tow  or 
moss,  and  stuff  with  any  goods  to  suit 
your  fancy,  silk  plush,  velvet,  etc. 
Put  the  filling  in  tight  and  let  it  come 
111 


above  the  level  of  hoof  to  make  the 
cover  rounding,  then  drawn  down  tight. 
Draw  the  edges  of  the  cover  down  and 
sew  them  with  a  strong  thread  to  the 
binding.  Take  a  piece  of  fancy  cord 
or  ribbon  and  tack  it  around  the  edge 
of  the  cover  and  you  have  a  fancy  pin 
cushion.  To  make  a  match  safe  or 
tooth-pick  case,  polish  the  hoofs,  wire 
together,  and  drill  the  holes  around  the 
edge  as  before;  then  take  some  glue 
and  spread  it  well  over  the  inside  of 
each  hoof;  cut  some  red  flannel  to  tit 
the  inside  and  press  it  in  with  your  fin- 
gers until  it  is  all  smooth;  cut  it  otf  at 
the  edge  of  to})  of  hoof,  and  bind  the 
edges  with  ribbon.  This  makes  a  very 
pretty  match  safe  or  tooth-pick  case. 
All  hoofs  are  polished  in  the  same  man- 
ner. Should  the  hoofs  not  set  level 
after  they  are  put  together,  take  a 
coarse  piece  of  sand-paper  and  tack  or 
hold  it  on  a  level  board,  set  the  bottom 
of  the  hoofs  on  it  and  rub  round  and 
112 


round  until  they  do  set  level.  It 
would  be  best  to  attend  to  this  as  soon 
as  they  are  fastened  together. 


ARTICLE  XIII. 

TIPS  FOR  HORNS,  ETC. 

A  nickel-plated  acorn,  as 
shown  in  the  accompanying 
Lj^^cut,  makes  a  very  fine  finish 
^^  >  on  the  point  of  a  polished 
horn.  B  is  a  wire  stem  at- 
tached to  the  acorn,  and  is 
intended  for  fastening  it  to  the  horn. 
They  are  made  as  follows:  If  made  of 
metal,  they  are  cast  on  the  stem  and 
then  turned.  If  brass,  they  are  pol- 
ished ;  but  if  iron,  turned  and  then 
bronzed,  painted  or  nickel-plated.  If 
made  of  horn,  first  put  in  the  stem  and 
then  turn  and  polish  thena.  To  put 
them  on  the  horn,  saw  otf  the  point  of 
113 


the  horn,  drill  a  hole  in  the  end  of 
same,  the  size  of  the  stem,  put  a  little 
glue  in  the  hole  and  drive  the  stem  in 
tight.  The  horn  should  be  polished 
before  putting  the  knob  on.  Kound 
knobs  are  also  very  nice,  put  on  in  the 
same  way.  This  way  of  putting  them 
on  is  much  better  and  easier  than  the 
old  way  of  screwing  them  on. 


ARTICLE  XIV. 


RECEIPTS  FOR  VARIOUS  PREPARATIONS 

USED  IN  THE  PRESERVATION  AND 

SETTIN(i  UP  OF  ANIMALS, 

FOWLS,  ETC. 

SOLUTION  OF  CORROSIVE   SUBLIMATE. 

Corrosive  sublimate     -     1  teas})oonful 
Alcohol      ------        ^  pint 

Mix  and  let  stand  twelve  hours,  and 
it  is  ready  for  use. 

114 


ARSENICAL    SOAP. 

Arsenic  in  powder     -     -     -     3  pounds 

Salts  of  tartar 1  pound 

Camphor  gum  -  -  -  -  6  ounces 
Cocoanut  oil  soap  -  -  1^  pounds 
Powdered  lime      -     -     -     -      5  ounces 

Cut  the  soap  up  fine  and  put  it  in  a 
kettle  containing  one  gallon  of  soft 
water  and  boil  until  the  soap  is  well 
dissolved,  then  add  the  lime,  salts  of 
tartar  and  arsenic,  stirring  the  mixture 
thoroughly;  put  the  gum  camphor  in  a 
half  pint  of  alcohol  and  place  in  a  mor- 
tar and  crush  it ;  take  the  kettle  off  the 
fire  and  add  the  camphor;  mix  well,  and 
when  partly  cooled  put  it  in  fruit  jars 
and  seal  up.  It  is  now  ready  for  use, 
and  great  care  should  be  taken  in  using 
it,  as  it  is  a  deadly  poison. 

PRESERVING  POWDER 

Arsenic  in  powder  -  -  -  2  pounds 
Alum  in  powder      _     _     _     _    l  pound 

Mix  thoroughly  and   keep  in  a  dry 
place.     This  is  also  very  poisonous. 
115 


CARBOLIC    ACID. 

The  following  solution  of  carl)olic 
acid  and  water  1  have  found  very  good 
in  preserving  skins,  bugs  etc. : 

Carbolic  acid     -----      ^  ounce 
Soft  water 2  quarts 

Turpentine  is  also  a  good  preserva- 
tive, and  is  sometimes  used  in  place  of 
corrosive  sublimate. 

TH1>(;S  WOKTH  REMEMBERING. 

Never  attempt  to  dress  a  bird  when 
its  feathers  are  In'oken  or  badly  blood 
stained,  unless  it  is  a  rare  specimen. 

Never  dress  a  bird  after  the  feathers 
begin  to  slip. 

Never  dress  an  animal  after  the  hair 
begins  to  slip. 

Never  let  a  hide  get  dry  before  ap- 
plying the  preserving  powder. 

Never  stretch  a  hide  out  of  sliape 
while  taking  it  oflf. 

Never  forget  to  sto})  all  wounds  and 
116 


the  month  and  nostrils  with  cotton  'is 
soon  as  you  kill  the  s})eeinien. 

Never  let  a  s})ecimen  aet  dry  after 
stuffing  it  before  shaping  and  setting  it 
up. 

Never  inhale  the  preserving  powder, 
or  get  it  in  cuts  or  sores,  for  it  is  a 
deadly  poison. 

Never  l^e  afraid  of  putting  too  much 
of  the  preserving  powder  on  a  hide. 

Never  be  afraid  of  charging  a  good 
price  for  a  well  dressed  specimen. 

Always  use  the  best  material,  such 
as  eyes,  tow,  cotton,  wire,  etc. 

Always  try  to  improve  on  each  speci- 
men you  dress  that  you  may  excel 
others  in  the  art 

TANNING  HIDES  WITH  HAIR  ON. 

Very  little  has  ever  been  written  in 
regard  to  tanning  skins  with  the  hair 
on.  Indeed  we  may  say  there  is  scarcely 
any  literature  on  the  subject,  and  this 
article  must  necessarily  be  very  brief. 
117 


Tanning  with  the  hair  on  is  always 
somewhat  difficult,  but  of  course,  some 
hides  are  more  difficult  to  tan  than 
others.  As  an  average,  I  will  here  give 
directions  for  tanninor  a  door  hide.  The 
same  process  obtains  in  the  tanning  of 
other  hides.  The  only  difference  being 
in  the  length  of  time  required  which 
must  be  regulated  to  suit  each  case. 
We  will  start  with  the  skin  on  the 
dog's  back,  and  hence  the  first  opera- 
tion will  be  the  skinning  process.  To 
begin,  make  an  incision  from  middle 
of  under  lip  l)ack  along  the  median  line 
to  the  tip  of  the  tail.  Then  make  an 
incision  from  the  middle  of  each  foot 
along  the  inner  side  of  the  leg  to  the 
median  line,  and  proceed  to  skin,  being 
careful  not  to  cut  holes  in  the  hide,  and 
at  the  same  time  to  leave  no  flesh  stick- 
ing to  the  skin. 

When    skinning  the    head    cut    the 
gristle  of  the   ear    back    close    to    the 
skull  and  separate  the  skin  as  near  out 
118 


to  the  point  of  the  ear  as  possible. 
Unless  this  skin  is  separated,  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  tan  the  ears  without  loosing  the 
hair,  especially  in  warm  weather.  Be 
very  careful  not  to  cut  the  eyelids; 
skin  on  over  the  nose  and  cut  loose 
from  the  body. 

Then  go  over  the  pelt  and  remove 
every  particle  of  flesh  Avhich  may  have 
been  left  on  the  skin,  and  be  especially 
careful  around  the  nose  and  mouth. 
All  the  bones  of  the  feet  should  be 
removed  except  the  bones  of  the  toes= 
Next  bathe  the  nose,  ears,  feet  and 
tail  with  the  preserving  fluids  used  in 
taxidermy.  If  you  have  none  of  the 
fluid,  use  plenty  of  arsenic  and  alum, 
and  then  stretch  the  hide  on  a  floor 
with  the  hair  side  down  and  tack  all 
the  parts  so  that  they  will  be  stretched 
perfectly  smooth,  after  which  salt  all 
over  thoroughly.  Let  it  remain  until 
perfectly  dry,  and  then  take  a  piece  of 
coarse  sand-paper  and  rul)  it  down 
119 


smooth    and    <jlear  of    any    remaining 
vestige  of  fleshy  particles. 

Or  instead  of  the  preceding  modus 
operandi,  remove  the  pelt  from  the 
floor  when  about  dry,  and  lay  it  on  a 
ileshing  Ijeam  and  with  a  fleshing  knife 
scrape  off  all  remaining  flesh  and 
grease.  Should  there  be  grease  that 
cannot  })e  removed  with  fleshing  knife, 
tack  hide  ])ack  on  the  floor  and  spread 
alxjut  three  gallons  of  sawdust  ov^er  it 
and  rub  thoroughly.  Clean  the  skin 
and  cover  again  with  salt,  and  when 
dry  sand-paper  as  directed  above.  Next 
place  in  Avarm  water  to  soften  it,  and 
Avhen  soft  wash  it  thoroughly  with 
soap.  Then  rinse  and  wring  it,  and  put 
it  into  the  following  liquid  which 
should  be  contained  in  a  wooden  vessel. 
The  liquid  consists  of  one  gallon  of 
soft  warm  w^ater,  one-half  ounce  of 
commercial  sulphuric  acid,  and  one- 
third  of  a  pound  of  corn  starch.  After 
compounding,  this  liquid  should  be 
120 


stirred  about  ten  minutes  before  the 
skin  is  introduced.  When  the  pelt  is 
put  in,  it  should  be  pressed  well  under, 
and  stirred  with  a  wooden  paddle  for 
thirty  minutes  or  until  it  begins  to 
thicken  and  turn  a  dark  reddish  color. 
Then  take  it  out  and  hang  it  up,  and  let 
it  drain  about  thirty  minutes,  after 
which  put  it  into  a  weak  lye  made 
either  from  wood  ashes  or  from  con- 
centrated lye  which  may  be  bought  in 
any  grocery  store;  strain  the  liquid  be- 
fore putting  the  hide  in.  Stir  the  hide 
in  this  lye  about  thirty  minutes  again, 
or  until  you  are  satisfied  the  lye  has 
had  time  to  neutralize  the  acid  from 
the  preceding  bath.  The  object  of  this 
latter  bath  is  to  counteract  the  acid  elf  ect 
of  the  former.  Take  out  of  the  lye  and 
hang  up  and  let  it  drain  al)(:ut  one 
hour,  and  then  give  it  a  thorough  wash- 
ing on  a  wash-board  with  plenty  of 
soap  and  warm  Avater.  Rinse  perfectly 
clean  and  again  hang  up  to  drain. 
121 


WheQ  the  hair  is  nearly  dry,  tack  it 
again  on  the  floor  taking  care  to  stretch 
it  into  proper  shape.  When  partly  dry 
take  it  up  and  rub  and  pull  it  until 
soft,  which  completes  the  tanning.  We 
are  then  ready  to  place  the  skull  in 
position.  After  skinning  the  head, 
remove  the  Ijrains  and  eyeballs,  and 
then  boil  the  skull  until  all  the  flesh 
can  be  scraped  fiom  the  bones.  The 
skull  being  ready,  fill  the  eye  sockets 
with  plaster  par  is  made  with  water  in- 
to the  consistency  of  a  plaster,  and  then 
set  in  a  pair  of  suitable  glass  eyes,  be- 
ing careful  to  so  adjust  them  as  to  give 
them  the  appearance  of  natural  eyes. 

The  under  jaw  should  be  wired  to 
the  upper,  or  bound  securely  to  it  by  a 
small  cord  or  wire.  Saw  the  skull  and 
back  corners  of  under  jaw  off,  so  that 
when  tho  sawed  surface  is  fastened 
down  flat  on  a  board,  the  nose  will  be 
sjmewhat  elevated  from  the  floor, 
while  the  back  part  of  the  skull  will 
122 


lie  on  the  floor.  Fasten  the  skull  to 
the  small  boards  with  wire,,  and  the:i 
stretch  the  skin  over  it.  Soak  only  the 
skin  of  the  head  in  water,  and  sew  up 
the  mouth  by  drawing  the  lower  lips 
up  under  the  upper  in  the  natural  way. 
The  skin  should  be  inside  out  Y>'hile  the 
lips  are  being  sewed.  If  in  the  process 
of  skinning  you  have  cut  the  skin  clear 
out  through  the  lip,  it  mu-;t  be  sewed 
together  far  enough  to  inclose  the  skull 
and  the  under  board,  which  should  not 
extend  more  than  two  inches  back  of 
the  skull.  Build  out  the  end  of  the 
nose  with  plaster  paris  to  make  it  nat- 
ural shape  and  draw  the  skin  over  the 
skull.  Be  very  careful  to  have  the 
nose  and  eyes  all  right.  Tack  the  skin 
to  the  under  side  of  the  board  which 
should  in  width  correspond  to  the  thick- 
ness of  the  dog's  neck.  The  edges  of 
the  neck  skin  should  be  sutured  to- 
gether under  the  board  and  tacked  to 
it.  Cut  the  skin,  which  is  lapped  un- 
123 


(ler,  follow i HIT  the  line  of  hack  on^  of 
hoard  out  to  the  side  ed^es  of  the 
hoard.  Turn  this  tia})  out  and  sew  the- 
underlyiniT  end  to  the  ui)per  skin,  or  to 
the  skin  of  hack  of  neck,  and  close  to 
the  back  end  of  hoard  ;  this  brings  the 
skin  on  a  level  of  under  side  of  board; 
now  round  off  the  turned  out  flap  so  as 
to  conform  with  the  line  of  the  neck 
add  fore  legs;  the  head  will  now  need 
some  stuffing  to  round  it  up  in  })r(;per 
shape.  Take  some  cotton  and  put  it 
in  through  the  ears  with  a  wire,  plac- 
ing it  where  needed  to  give  the  hea^l 
a  proper  shape;  arrange  the  skin  around 
the  eyes,  nose  and  mouth;  then  let  dry 
before  lining.  Put  a  good  supply  of 
the  alcohol  and  corrosive  sublimate  on 
the  ears,  nose  and  lips,  as  soon  as  head 
is  dressed.  Isow  for  the  lining,  pro- 
cure a  sufficient  amount  of  felt  to  line 
it,  say  of  a  dark  green  color;  then  get 
enough  to  make  a  strip  one  and  a  half 
inches  wide  and  long  enough  to  go 
124 


around  the  edge  of  hide;    this    should 
be  an  orange  color. 

Take  this  strip  and  pink  one  edge  of 
it,  then  baste  the  lining  on  to  skin 
letting  the  edges  of  it  project  about 
two  inches  out  from  edge  of  hide. 
Now  comb, the  hair  around  the  edges  of 
hide  back  towards  the  center  of  same. 
Then  take  the  pinked  strip  and  lay  it 
on  the  hair  side  of  skin,  the  smooth 
edo^e  alono^  the  eds^e  of  the  hide  and 
the  pinked  edge  laying  back  on  the 
hair;  then  sew  the  pinked  strip,  lining 
and  hide  tos^ether,  runnins^  close  to 
the  edge  of  hide.  Now  turn  the  pinked 
strip  out  on  to  the  projecting  lining 
and  sew  another  seam  around  just  out 
side  of  the  hide,  thus  sewing  the  lining 
and  the  pinked  strip  together.  Now 
pink  the  out  edge  of  lining  to  suit 
3^our  taste;  then  take  some  yarn  or 
zephyr  and  knot  the  lining  and  hide 
together,  the  same  as  in  knotting  a 
comfort,  and  the  job  is  complete. 
125 


To  make  a  robe  sew  a  number  of 
hides  together  and  line  them,  simply 
binding  the  edga  with  a  straight  strip. 

TO  SOFTEN  HIDES. 

Where  a  hide  has  become  hard  by 
getting  wet,  or  fi'om  some  other  cause 
after  tanning,  wet  it  on  tlesh  side  with 
water  and  hang  up.  \Mien  partly  dry 
give  it  a  thorough  rubl)ing.  If  that 
fails  to  soften  it,  oil  it  with  Xeatsfoot 
oil  and  rub  it  in  well. 

TO  CLEAN  RL(;S  AND  FURS. 

When  rugs  and  furs  become  dirty 
from  use  take  hardwood  sawdust,  dam- 
[)en  it  and  rub  well  into  hide.  Shake 
out  and  repeat  until  clean. 

TO  KILL  MOTHS  IN  FURS,  ETC. 

Sprinkle    them    well    with    arsenic 

shaking  it  well  down  on  hide.      Tie  up 

and  lay  away  for  a   few    days.      Then 

dust  all  the  arsenic  out  and  clean  with 

l'2ij 


the  sawdust.  In  stiiti'ed  l)ir(ls  use  the 
arsenic  alone,  but  handle  it  with  care 
for  it  is  a  deadly  poison. 


extras. 


A  FAMILY  LlNmENT, 

Alcohol  -  -  1    pint 

Gum  Camphor  -         -         i  ounce 
Aqua  ammonia   -  -  3    ounces 

Oil  of  Sassafras  -  -         i  ounce 

Laudanum  -  -         -    i  ounce 

Mix. 

Wishing  to  use  the  above  for  neu- 
ralgia  or    rheumatism,    add    to    three 
ounces   of    the    preparation   tt   grains 
menthol  (in  crystals). 
127 


FIVE  DAY  CORN  OR  WART  CURE. 

Cannabis  -  -  5    grains 

Salicylic  Acid  -  29    grains 

Colodion  -  -  i  ounce 

Caster  Oil  -  -    10    drops 

Directions: 

Mix  thoroughly,  and  before  apply- 
ing dampen  the  corn  or  wart  with 
turpentine;  then  apply,  being  careful 
not  to  get  the  preparation  on  the  sound 
flesh.  Kepeat  this  every  night  before 
going  to  bed  for  five  successive  nights. 
Now  bind  a  slice  of  lemon  on  excrescence, 
let  it  remain  one  hour,  and  then  wash 
and  scape  off  corn  or  wart.  You  may  of 
coiu'se  repeat  as  often  as  necessary,  or 
until  excrescence  is  entirely  removed. 

FURNITURE  POLISH. 


Turpentine 

i  pint 

Yellow  lubricating  oil 

-|  pi'^^ 

Muriatic  acid     - 

1    ounce 

Directions: 

128 

Mix  and  let  stand  two  days,  and 
then  apply  with  a  sponge  after  which 
thoroughly  dry  with  a  woolen  cloth. 

WHITE  CEMENT. 

Best  white  glue         -  -       f  pound 

Soft  water  -  -  2^  pints 

Directions: 

Mix  and  heat  over  a  slow  fire  until 
dissolved;  then  stir  in  4:  ounces  dry 
white  lead,  J  pint  alcohol,  and  1  ounce 
aqua  ammonia. 


129 


Barbel's'  Itch 2'.i 

Blufk  Heads   21 

Bleaching  for  the  Hair :2:J 

Brilliantine   2i) 

Camphor  Ice Ki 

Enorraving  Fluid ....  r.'() 

Face  Whitenings 23-  H2 

Four  Face  and  Hand  Creams 12-  15 

Glass  Hone HU 

HairDyes 9-10 

Hair  Oils  and  Pomades 25-26 

Menthol  Salve 17 

Mugs,  Brushes  and  Soap 3! 

Quinine  Hair  Tonics  and  Sea  Foam . .   11-  "<» 

Shampoos.* 17-  1'.' 

Shower-Bath  and  Shampoo  Can r,l 

Suggestions  to  Beginners ?,:> 

To  Stop  Blood 29 

Towels  and  Hair  Cloths         33 

TAXIDERMY. 

Ai'iicle   I.,  On  Skinning  and  Dressing  Birds.    .    .  4H 

"        II.,  On  Skinning  and  Di-e.s.sing  Animals  fi3 

"      HI.,  Fish  Dressing 72 

-'      IV.,  Hunting  Specimens  and  care  of  same  77 

«  V.  and  VI..  Wood  and  Wire  Flames 79-81 

"     VIi.,  Dressing  Moles,  etc..    82 

"  VIII.,  Dressing  Turtles  84 

*•      IX..  Killing  and  Dressing  Snakes   .     89 

"         X.,  Dressing  Alligators 92 

"      XI..  On  Making  Footstools,  etc  ..       ...  94 

'•     XII.,  Polishing  Horns,  etc 102 

"   XIII.,  Tips  for  Horns,  etc 113 

*'  XIV.,  Recipes  for  Preserving  Preparations,  111 
Tanning  Hides,  etc , 117  lift 

Extra  Formulas 127-129 

130 


trom  which  it  was  borrowed. 


B     000  002  132     9 


